Duruwakashi

Duruwakashi

ドゥルワカシー·(doo-roo-wah-kah-shee)

Obaa's Pot on the Stove: Slow-Simmered Weekend Comforts

Render the sliced pork belly. Pour the dashi broth over the rehydrated shiitake. Push the heavy Dutch oven to the back burner. The name translates to 'boiling mud'—a literal description for a dish that tastes like pure elegance. While authentic water taro is nearly impossible to find stateside, Japanese satoimo works flawlessly. The trick is not a secret ingredient, it is the technique: mashing the taro in the pot as it simmers until it releases its starches and bubbles thick and glossy. Keep the flame low and let the mashed taro absorb the pork fat.

Before you start

  • Extract the mushroom umami overnight.

    Place the dried shiitake in a bowl with 1 cup of cold water and leave in the fridge overnight. Squeeze dry, reserving the soaking liquid, and finely dice the caps.

  • Create a quick pork dashi.

    In a medium pot, cover the pork belly block with water and simmer for 45 minutes until tender. Remove the pork, let it cool, and cut into 1/4-inch cubes. Reserve 1 cup of the boiling liquid, skimming off the fat.

  • Rehydrate and neutralize the taro stems.

    Soak the dried imogara in water for 20 minutes, peel away the stringy outer fibers like celery, and boil in fresh water for 5 minutes. Squeeze completely dry and chop into 1-inch pieces.

  • Parboil the taro.

    Boil the sliced satoimo in water for 10 minutes until a fork easily pierces them, then drain.

Ingredients

  • satoimo1 lb
  • dried imogara1 oz
  • pork belly block1/2 lb
  • dried shiitake mushrooms3 med
  • lard1 tbsp
  • sweet white miso3 tbsp
  • sea salt1/2 tsp
  • kamaboko2 oz

Method

  1. 01

    Render the pork fat to build the savory foundation.

    In a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, heat the lard over medium heat. Toss in the diced pork belly and sauté until the fat begins to render and glisten, then add the diced shiitake, imogara, and boiled satoimo, tossing to coat everything in the rich fat.

  2. 02

    Simmer and execute the traditional mashing technique.

    Pour in 1 cup of the reserved pork broth and 1/4 cup of the shiitake soaking liquid and bring to a gentle simmer. Using a sturdy wooden spoon, aggressively press and mash the softening taro against the sides of the pot. Keep stirring, mashing, and folding for 10 to 15 minutes until it reduces into a thick, sticky paste that bubbles like mud.

  3. 03

    Incorporate the final seasonings and fold in the fish cake.

    In a small bowl, whisk the white miso with a spoonful of hot water to loosen it, then stir it into the pot along with the salt. Fold in the diced kamaboko and cook for 2 more minutes until the mixture pulls slightly away from the edges of the pot. Serve warm.

Notes

  • Transform the leftovers into crispy weeknight Duru-ten.

    Because satoimo is heavily starchy, leftover Duruwakashi firms up perfectly in the fridge overnight. On a busy weeknight, roll the cold leftovers into golf-ball-sized ovals, dust them lightly in potato starch or panko, and shallow fry in neutral oil at 340°F until golden brown. The outside becomes shatteringly crisp while the inside stays molten and rich.

From Cook Okinawan in America.

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