Duba Wat
ዱባ ወጥ·(doo-bah waht)
Yetsom Weeknights: The Wednesday & Friday Fast
Wednesday at six p.m. during the Yetsom fast, a heavy Dutch oven hits the stove, the garlic hisses, the onions collapse. The foundation of this vegan squash stew lies in the kulet: a jammy onion base that traditionally requires agonizing knife work. We skip the tedium by pureeing the onions in a food processor and, instead of wrestling a supermarket butternut squash, utilizing Japanese Kabocha squash, whose edible skin eliminates peeling entirely. The pot simmers, the kitchen smells like blooming berbere and caramelized onions, the weeknight rush just fades out.
Before you start
Use a food processor to replicate grandmother's knife work.
Traditional Ethiopian cooking involves exhaustive hand-mincing. For a weeknight, pulsing quartered red onions in a food processor achieves the exact textural end-goal of a traditional kulet without the time penalty.
Ingredients
- Kabocha squash2 lb
- red onions2 large
- neutral oil1/3 cup
- authentic berbere spice blend3 tbsp
- garlic4 clove
- fresh ginger1 tbsp
- tomato paste1 tbsp
- hot water1 1/2 cup
- kosher salt1 tsp
- ground cardamom1/2 tsp
Method
- 01
Dry sweat the pureed onions to concentrate their sugars.
Place the pureed red onions in a dry, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven over medium heat without any oil. Cook for 5 to 8 minutes, stirring frequently, until their harsh raw vapor dissipates and their water content evaporates entirely. They will shrink significantly and begin to stick to the bottom.
- 02
Build the foundation of the kulet.
Pour the neutral oil into the pot. Stir aggressively to coat the onions and fry for about 5 minutes until they reduce into a rich, dark golden paste.
- 03
Bloom the spices and aromatics.
Stir in the berbere and toast for 1 to 2 minutes until the oil turns a brilliant crimson and becomes intensely fragrant. Add the minced garlic, grated ginger, and tomato paste, cooking for another 2 minutes. If the paste threatens to scorch, splash in a tablespoon of hot water and scrape the bottom of the pot.
- 04
Coat and braise the squash in the kulet.
Fold the cubed Kabocha squash into the pot, ensuring every piece is slathered in the fiery paste. Pour in the hot water—it should only come about halfway up the squash. Do not use vegetable broth; respect the purity of the spices.
- 05
Simmer until tender, then mash to naturally thicken the stew.
Bring to a gentle boil, reduce the heat to low, and cover with the lid slightly ajar. Simmer for 20 to 30 minutes until the squash is fork-tender. Take the back of your wooden spoon and deliberately smash a few cubes against the side of the pot, stirring the mash back in to bind the water and oil into a luxurious, velvety gravy.
- 06
Finish with cardamom and let the stew rest.
Remove the pot from the heat. Stir in the kosher salt and ground cardamom. Let the stew rest for 5 minutes before serving with fresh injera or steamed basmati rice.
Notes
Sourcing the right squash.
Japanese Kabocha squash is the perfect American substitute for Ethiopian duba. Its firm texture holds up to braising, and its edible skin saves you from treacherous peeling. If unavailable, butternut works, but you must peel it first.
Respect the fasting tradition.
During Yetsom (fasting), all animal products are strictly forbidden. Resist the urge to use butter or chicken stock; this dish relies entirely on the complex Maillard reaction of the onions and the robust depth of authentic berbere.