Croûtons à l'Anchoïade et Beurre de Baratte
(kroo-tawn a lahn-shwa-yahd ay burr duh bah-raht)
Chapter 4 — The Cheese & Bread Course
If you have ever sat at the pewter bar at Pastis, ordered a glass of Sancerre, and bit into a seemingly simple anchovy toast, you know the American French bistro is an institution built on hidden exactitude. This is not a casual weeknight tuna salad. This is anchoïade—a fiercely traditional Provençal emulsion of anchovies, garlic, and olive oil, elevated to brasserie elegance by the intervention of beurre de baratte. You cannot cut corners here. You must seek out whole, salt-packed anchovies and grant them an overnight soak in milk to draw out the harsh sodium, and you must spring for the churned, eighty-three-percent-fat cultured butter. When you drag that cold, dense butter across a warm, cast-iron-toasted croûton, and top it with this pungent, hand-pounded emulsion, you will close your eyes and say, 'Yes, this is exactly what Spring Street tastes like.'
Before you start
Submerge the rinsed salt-packed anchovies in the whole milk, cover, and refrigerate overnight.
The lactic acid and proteins in the milk will extract the harsh salt and soften the brashness of the fish without destroying its physical structure.
Drain the anchovies, discard the milk, and gently pat the fish entirely dry with paper towels.
If they are whole, gently pull them apart to remove the central spine and tiny fins, which will slip out easily after the soak.
Ingredients
- salt-packed anchovies6 oz
- whole milk1 cup
- fresh garlic3 med cloves
- Champagne vinegar1 tsp
- Dijon mustard1 tsp
- capers1 tbsp
- extra-virgin olive oil1/2 cup
- black pepperto taste
- authentic French baguette1 med
- olive oil3 tbsp
- fresh garlic1 small clove
- Beurre de Baratte4 oz
- flat-leaf parsley1 tbsp
Method
- 01
Place the degermed garlic, the prepared anchovies, and the capers into a heavy stone mortar.
Using a wooden pestle, pound the mixture with aggressive patience until it breaks down into a uniform, sticky paste.
- 02
Stir in the Champagne vinegar and Dijon mustard to combine.
If you are forced to use a food processor for volume, pulse briefly at this stage, being incredibly careful not to liquefy the mixture.
- 03
While continuously stirring and grinding in a tight circular motion, slowly stream in the half-cup of extra-virgin olive oil.
The mixture will transform from a chunky paste into a smooth, shiny, suspended emulsion. Season generously with black pepper.
- 04
Heat a large cast iron skillet over medium heat, brush both sides of the baguette slices with the three tablespoons of olive oil, and toast them until deeply golden and audibly crisp.
They should take about 2 to 3 minutes per side. While the croûtons are still hot, lightly rub the cut side of your halved garlic clove over the abrasive surface of each toast.
- 05
Smear a formidable layer of the cold butter shavings over the warm croûtons, then immediately spoon a thick quenelle of the room-temperature anchoïade over the butter.
The butter will yield to the heat but should not melt entirely, providing the necessary lipid barrier. Garnish with a pinch of minced flat-leaf parsley and serve immediately.
Notes
Standard American sweet cream butter is fundamentally unacceptable for this dish.
If imported French Beurre de Baratte is impossible to procure, you must source a domestic European-style cultured butter with a minimum of 82 percent fat. The lower water content prevents the croûton from turning soggy, and the cultured tang is necessary to stand up to the anchovy.
If the emulsion breaks or is overwhelmingly salty, deploy the traditional Provençal rescue protocol.
Soak a small handful of crustless white bread in a splash of milk, squeeze it dry, and pound it into the broken sauce so the starches can absorb the excess salt and physically bind the broken oil.