Creamy Pininyahang Manok
(pi-nin-ya-hang ma-nok)
The Weeknight Ulam (Fast, Unapologetic Dinners)
There is no shame in canned pineapple—in fact, here, it is the only correct choice. This is the ultimate 1990s diaspora lifesaver, the unapologetic, incredibly comforting dish a Filipino mother threw together after a ten-hour shift. It relies on the aggressive tenderizing magic of canned pineapple juice and the velvety weight of evaporated milk to balance a fiercely savory fish sauce backbone. It is sweet, salty, rich, and tastes exactly like home.
Before you start
Mise en place is critical.
This dish moves quickly once the short marination is done. Have your root vegetables chopped and your aromatics minced before the chicken ever hits the pan.
Ingredients
- boneless skinless chicken thighs1 1/2 lb
- canned pineapple chunks in 100 percent juice20 oz
- fish sauce2 tbsp
- neutral cooking oil2 tbsp
- Russet potato1 large
- carrot1 med
- yellow onion1 med
- garlic4 clove
- ginger1 tbsp
- red bell pepper1 med
- green bell pepper1 med
- evaporated milk1/2 cup
- black pepper1/2 tsp
Method
- 01
Marinate the chicken in the pineapple juice.
Toss the chicken chunks and fish sauce into the reserved pineapple juice. Let sit at room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes while you chop the vegetables. The bromelain enzyme works astonishingly fast; do not leave it for hours or the meat will turn to mush.
- 02
Seal the root vegetables.
Heat the oil in a deep skillet or wok over medium-high heat. Fry the potatoes and carrots for about 5 minutes until they develop a light, golden crust on the edges, then remove them with a slotted spoon. This ensures they do not disintegrate into mashed potatoes later.
- 03
Sauté the aromatics and brown the meat.
Lower the heat to medium. In the remaining oil, cook the ginger for 1 minute, then add the onion and garlic until translucent. Lift the chicken from its marinade with tongs, saving the liquid, and add to the pan. Cook until lightly browned, about 5 minutes.
- 04
Simmer the braise.
Pour the reserved pineapple juice marinade directly into the pan. Bring to a gentle boil, immediately drop the heat to a simmer, cover, and let cook for 10 minutes.
- 05
Bring the stew together.
Uncover and stir in the pineapple chunks, fried potatoes and carrots, and both bell peppers. Simmer uncovered for 3 to 5 minutes until the peppers are tender-crisp.
- 06
Incorporate the dairy off the boil.
Turn the heat down to the absolute lowest setting. Wait 30 seconds for the bubbling to completely stop, then slowly pour in the evaporated milk while stirring gently. Do not let the pot boil once the milk is added, or the acidic juice will curdle the dairy into an ugly mess. Heat gently for 1 to 2 minutes just to warm through.
- 07
Season and serve.
Taste for balance, adding another splash of fish sauce if needed, and finish with black pepper. Serve piping hot over a massive mound of steamed white rice.
Notes
The ultimate dairy secret.
Pineapple juice is highly acidic and will rapidly denature the proteins in evaporated milk if exposed to high heat. Killing the simmer before adding the dairy is the non-negotiable technique that separates a master from an amateur.
Use 100 percent juice, not syrup.
Canned pineapple in heavy syrup destroys the delicate savory balance of the stew, rendering it cloyingly sweet. Check the label carefully.
From Cook Filipino in America.