Codzitos de Ilusión con Salsa de Chiltomate
(kots-EE-tos de ee-loo-SYON con SAHL-sah de cheel-toh-MAH-teh)
Masa and Memories: The Panucho & Salbut Stand
Blister tomatoes in a cast-iron skillet, tightly roll the empty corn tortillas, and drop them straight into hot oil. You might be tempted to stuff these with shredded chicken like a standard-issue flauta. Don't. They rely on the elemental magic of dehydrated, shattered-crisp masa mingling with a smoky, waterless habanero sauce. Dry the tortillas the night before, and you can fry up the most remarkable weeknight dinner of your life in five minutes. Drown the fried rolls in the hot sauce and eat them immediately.
Before you start
Warm and roll the tortillas tightly.
Heat a dry skillet over medium and warm the tortillas for 10 to 15 seconds per side until pliable. Roll each one into a tight cylinder, leaving absolutely no empty space or air in the center.
Secure and dehydrate the rolls.
Tie a small piece of cotton kitchen twine around the center of each roll. Place on a wire rack and air dry for 12 to 24 hours, or in a 170°F oven with the door cracked for 1 to 2 hours until stiff. This is the grandma secret to a shatteringly crisp, grease-free taco.
Ingredients
- thin corn tortillas16
- high-quality lard or neutral oil1 cup
- Roma tomatoes4 large
- habanero pepper1
- white onion1/2 med
- garlic2 cloves
- lard or vegetable oil1 tbsp
- coarse salt1/2 tsp
- aged Queso Cotija or dry Feta cheese1/2 cup
Method
- 01
Char the salsa ingredients.
Heat a dry cast-iron skillet over medium-high. Add the whole tomatoes, onion chunk, unpeeled garlic, and habanero. Rotate until blackened and blistered, removing the garlic and habanero after 5 minutes so they don't turn bitter, and letting the tomatoes go for about 15 minutes.
- 02
Blend the chiltomate without water.
Peel the garlic. Toss the roasted tomatoes, onion, garlic, habanero, and salt into a blender. Blend until roughly smooth. Do not add a drop of water or broth; you must rely entirely on the roasted tomato juices.
- 03
Fry the sauce.
Melt 1 tablespoon of lard in a saucepan over medium heat. Carefully pour in the blended salsa—it will sputter violently. Let it simmer aggressively for 10 minutes until it darkens to a deep brick red and the fat glistens on top.
- 04
Fry the codzitos.
Remove and discard the twine from the dried tortillas. Heat a half-inch of lard or oil to 350°F in a heavy skillet. Fry the rolls in batches for 2 to 3 minutes per side until deeply golden and audibly shattering, then drain on paper towels.
- 05
Assemble and serve immediately.
Pile the crispy codzitos on a plate. Drown the center of the rolls in the hot, thick chiltomate sauce, leaving the crispy ends exposed. Shower heavily with the crumbled Cotija and eat immediately.
Notes
The empty taco.
Do not give into the urge to add meat. The magic of this dish is the pure, elemental contrast between the slick, rich salsa and the glass-like crunch of the dried, fried masa.
Managing the heat.
Habaneros are fierce, but charring them mellows their bite into a floral warmth. If cooking for kids, char the pepper whole and simply simmer it intact in the sauce instead of blending it.
Lard is non-negotiable.
While vegetable oil works for frying, real rendered pork lard is the historical backbone of this region's cooking. It gives the chiltomate its necessary savory undertones.