Chiu Chow Fun Guo
潮州粉果·(cháo-zhōu fěn-guǒ)
Chapter 2: The Steamed
If the translucent, fourteen-pleated har gow is the undisputed king of the dim sum cart, Chiu Chow fun guo is the brilliant, chaotic duke. Born of rustic Teochew resourcefulness and elevated in Guangzhou's cutthroat teahouses, it is a masterpiece of textural contrast. Unlike the homogenous, bouncy meat pastes found in siu mai, this filling relies on a meticulous brunoise—a confetti of cooked pork, sweet preserved radish, earthy mushrooms, crisp jicama, and the ultimate Teochew signature: roasted peanuts. Wrapped in a miraculous hot-water dough that transforms in the steamer into glass-like jewels, it demands patience, sharp knife work, and respect for the science of starch. It is the absolute pinnacle of weekend project cooking.
Before you start
Use the tortilla press hack.
Traditional dim sum chefs use the oiled blade of a cleaver to smear dough into perfect circles. A cast-iron tortilla press achieves the same flawless, 1/16-inch thickness without the steep learning curve. Use cut ziplock bags instead of parchment to prevent the dough from sticking.
Ingredients
- dried shiitake mushrooms4 small
- dried shrimp2 tbsp
- neutral oil2 tbsp
- ground pork1/2 lb
- sweet preserved radish1/3 cup
- jicama1/2 cup
- light soy sauce1 tbsp
- oyster sauce1 tbsp
- toasted sesame oil1 tsp
- granulated sugar1/2 tsp
- ground white pepper1/4 tsp
- cornstarch1 tbsp
- roasted unsalted peanuts1/3 cup
- garlic chives1/3 cup
- fresh cilantro1/4 cup
- wheat starch1 cup
- potato starch1/3 cup
- kosher salt1/2 tsp
- boiling water1 cup
- tapioca starch3/4 cup
- neutral oil1 tbsp
Method
- 01
Build the savory foundation by sizzling the shrimp and mushrooms.
Heat a wok or large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the oil, then drop in the dried shrimp and mushrooms. Fry for 1 minute until their umami aromas fill the kitchen. Add the preserved radish and jicama, tossing for another minute.
- 02
Cook the pork until browned.
Push the vegetables to the edges of the wok. Add the ground pork to the center, breaking it apart with a spatula until no longer pink. Toss everything together.
- 03
Season the filling and bind it with the starch slurry.
Stir in the soy sauce, oyster sauce, sesame oil, sugar, and white pepper. Pour the cornstarch slurry into the wok. Cook for 30 to 60 seconds until the mixture immediately tightens into a glossy, cohesive mass.
- 04
Cool completely before adding the peanuts and herbs.
Transfer the filling to a wide plate and spread it out. Only when the mixture reaches room temperature should you fold in the chopped peanuts, garlic chives, and cilantro. If added while hot, the peanuts will steam and lose their defining crunch. Cover and refrigerate.
- 05
Gelatinize the starches with boiling water.
In a heat-proof bowl, whisk the wheat starch, potato starch, and salt. Pour exactly 1 cup of violently boiling water over the starches while stirring rapidly with chopsticks. The mixture will look shaggy and clumpy. Cover with a damp towel and rest for 5 minutes.
- 06
Knead in the tapioca starch and oil.
Turn the warm dough onto a clean surface and pour the tapioca starch over the top. Knead the tapioca into the dough. It will be messy. After 2 minutes, knead in the 1 tablespoon of oil. Continue for 5 to 8 minutes until the dough is smooth, pliable, and slightly tacky. Keep tightly wrapped in plastic.
- 07
Press the wrappers using a tortilla press.
Divide the dough into pieces and roll them into 20-gram spheres. Place a dough ball between two heavy-duty plastic sheets inside a cast-iron tortilla press. Press down firmly to create perfectly even, translucent circles about 3.5 inches wide.
- 08
Fold the dumplings into a crimped half-moon.
Place a heaped teaspoon of the cold filling in the center of the wrapper. Fold it over into a half-moon and pinch the edges firmly to seal. Gently crimp the sealed edge into a wavy rope pattern with your thumb and index finger. Place on a parchment-lined tray.
- 09
Steam over high heat until clear.
Line a bamboo steamer with perforated parchment paper. Arrange the dumplings in a single layer so they do not touch. Steam over a rolling boil for 8 to 10 minutes until the opaque dough transforms into a glistening crystal skin. Serve immediately.
Notes
Decouple the prep for a stress-free Sunday brunch.
Make the filling on Friday night so the gelatinized starches set up beautifully cold. Make the dough and fold the dumplings on Saturday, freezing them solid on a sheet pan. Steam them straight from frozen on Sunday morning alongside your other dim sum, adding just 2 to 3 minutes to the cooking time.
Do not cheat the water temperature for the dough.
The water must be at a violent, rolling boil to properly gelatinize the gluten-free wheat starch. If the water is merely hot, the dough will shatter and fail.
From Cook Dim Sum at Home.