
Chilaquiles de la Abuela en Mole Coloradito
El Almuerzo (The Morning Masa Rhythm)
To grow up a first-generation American is to know the weekend smell of toasted chiles and melting chocolate—the undeniable footprint of a grandmother's mole. True Oaxacan home cooking isn't just about monumental weekend labor; it's about culinary pragmatism on a Tuesday night. Mole Coloradito is the perfect gateway: deeply savory, gently sweet, and built on everyday ancho and guajillo chiles. This recipe offers the canonical weekend paste, followed by the rapid-fire weeknight chilaquiles that utilize it. The only non-negotiable rule is the tortilla. Fry them yourself. Bagged chips in a braise are a tragedy waiting to happen.
Ingredients
- dried Ancho chiles6 large
- dried Guajillo chiles4 large
- Roma tomatoes2 med
- white onion1/2 med
- garlic4 med clove
- ripe plantain1/2 med
- stale baguette or bolillo1/2 slice
- blanched almonds1/4 cup
- sesame seeds1/4 cup
- raisins2 tbsp
- Ceylon cinnamon stick1 med
- dried Mexican oregano1 tsp
- whole cloves3 whole
- black peppercorns5 whole
- Mexican drinking chocolate3 oz
- pork lard or neutral oil1/4 cup
- salt1 pinch
- stale corn tortillas12 med
- neutral oil1/3 cup
- Mole Coloradito Paste1 cup
- low-sodium chicken broth2 1/2 cup
- Queso Fresco or Cotija cheese1/2 cup
- Crema Mexicana1/3 cup
- red onion1/4 med
- fresh cilantro leaves1/4 cup
- eggs4 large
Method
- 01
Toast and hydrate the chiles.
Heat a dry cast-iron skillet over medium heat, open the chiles flat, and press them down for 10 to 15 seconds per side until aromatic, but not burnt. Transfer to a bowl, cover with hot water, and soak for 20 minutes before reserving 1 cup of the soaking liquid.
- 02
Char the aromatics.
In the same dry skillet, roast the tomatoes, onion slices, and unpeeled garlic until blistered and softened. Peel the garlic once it is cool enough to handle.
- 03
Fry the thickeners to build body.
Heat two tablespoons of lard or oil in a heavy pot over medium heat, fry the plantain and bread until deeply golden brown, then briefly fry the almonds and raisins until plump and toasted, removing everything with a slotted spoon.
- 04
Toast and grind the spices.
In a dry pan, briefly toast the sesame seeds, cinnamon, cloves, peppercorns, and oregano until fragrant, then grind to a fine powder in a spice grinder.
- 05
Blend the mole matrix.
Combine the hydrated chiles, charred aromatics, fried thickeners, ground spices, and half a cup of the reserved chile liquid in a blender, blending until exceptionally smooth, then pass through a fine-mesh strainer.
- 06
Fry the paste to mature the flavors.
Heat the remaining two tablespoons of fat in the heavy pot until rippling, carefully pour in the strained puree, and cook over medium-low heat for 20 minutes until darkened and thick. Let cool and store.
- 07
Prepare the totopos.
To assemble the chilaquiles, heat a third of a cup of oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat and fry the stale tortilla triangles in batches until crispy and golden brown. Transfer to paper towels and salt immediately.
- 08
Dilute the mole into a caldillo.
Wipe excess oil from the skillet, add one cup of the mole paste over medium heat, and whisk in the chicken broth until it reaches the consistency of melted ice cream, simmering for five minutes.
- 09
Coat the tortillas.
Lower the heat, tumble the freshly fried totopos into the sauce, and fold gently until every triangle is bathed in the rich liquid.
- 10
Simmer for texture, then serve immediately.
Let the chips simmer for exactly one to two minutes so the edges soften while the center retains a satisfying crunch. Divide into wide bowls, top with fried eggs, a drizzle of crema, crumbled cheese, thin red onions, and cilantro.
Notes
The Tortilla Mandate.
Supermarket corn tortillas are often overly pliable and moist. Leave them separated on a wire rack overnight to dehydrate; this creates a waterproof barrier when fried, allowing them to survive the braise.
Doctoring commercial paste.
If time is tight on a weeknight and you use a high-quality jarred paste, add a tablespoon of peanut butter and a small disc of Mexican chocolate to the simmering broth to mimic the profound depth of a homemade weekend paste.
Winter tomatoes.
If local tomatoes are pale and watery, substitute a high-quality canned whole peeled tomato, drained of its juices and charred slightly in a dry pan.
From Cook Oaxacan in America.