Chicken in Mole Coloradito with Runner Beans
Pollo en Mole Coloradito con Ayocotes·(poy-yo en mo-leh co-lo-ra-dee-to con ah-yo-co-tes)
El Arte de los Moles: Demystifying the Sauces
Coloradito translates to 'a little shade of red.' Down in Oaxaca, this is the mole that hooks you. It is a flawless balancing act: sweet plantains, toasted seeds, and a gentle chili heat, all grounded by a hit of Mexican chocolate. If you think making an authentic mole on a weeknight is a myth, you are wrong. The secret to that deep, maternal flavor isn't spending three days staring at a simmering pot. It is the ruthless, violent frying of your blended mole paste in hot fat before you add the broth. Do it right, serve it over poached chicken and meaty runner beans, and it tastes exactly like a family table in the Valles Centrales.
Ingredients
- chicken thighs2 lb
- white onion1/2 med
- garlic3 small clove
- kosher salt1 tsp
- dried guajillo chiles6 med
- dried ancho chiles4 med
- roma tomatoes3 med
- white onion1/2 large
- garlic4 small clove
- almonds1/4 cup
- sesame seeds1/4 cup
- raisins1/4 cup
- dried Mexican oregano1/2 tsp
- dried thyme1/2 tsp
- Mexican canela stick1 small
- whole cloves4 small
- black peppercorns6 small
- very ripe plantain1/2 med
- challah or brioche bread1 large slice
- pork lard or neutral oil3 tbsp
- Mexican drinking chocolate3 oz
- ayocote or large kidney beans2 cup
Method
- 01
Poach the chicken to yield a quick and rich broth.
Place the chicken thighs, the unchopped onion half, 3 peeled garlic cloves, and salt into a pot with 4 to 5 cups of water. Bring to a boil, then cover and gently simmer for 25 minutes. Reserve exactly 3 cups of the strained broth.
- 02
Toast and hydrate the dried chiles to awaken their flavor.
Briefly toast the cleaned guajillo and ancho chiles in a dry skillet over medium heat for 10 to 15 seconds per side until pliable. Submerge them in boiling water, weighed down with a plate, for 20 minutes until soft.
- 03
Toast the spices and dry-roast the aromatics.
In the same dry skillet, toast the sesame seeds, almonds, canela, cloves, and peppercorns until fragrant, removing them to a bowl. Next, dry-roast the tomatoes, chopped onion, and remaining garlic until charred and softened.
- 04
Fry the sweet plantain and bread to build the thickener.
Heat 1 tablespoon of the lard or oil in a pan over medium heat. Fry the plantain slices until deeply caramelized, then fry the bread until golden and crisp. This adds crucial sweetness and body to the final sauce.
- 05
Purée the aromatics, chiles, and thickeners into a smooth paste.
Drain the chiles completely, discarding the bitter soaking liquid. Blend them with the roasted vegetables, toasted spices, fried plantain, fried bread, raisins, oregano, thyme, and 1 cup of the warm reserved chicken broth on high speed until incredibly smooth.
- 06
Fry the mole paste in hot fat to deeply caramelize the sugars and mellow the chiles.
This is the abuela secret. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of lard in a heavy pot over medium-high until shimmering. Carefully pour in the splashing paste and stir constantly for 10 minutes until it darkens and reduces to a thick, rich consistency.
- 07
Simmer the mole with broth and chocolate to finish the sauce.
Slowly whisk in the remaining 2 cups of chicken broth and the chopped Mexican chocolate. Simmer gently over low heat for 15 minutes until it coats the back of a spoon, then adjust the salt to taste.
- 08
Fold the chicken and runner beans into the mole to serve.
Bathe the poached chicken and warmed beans in the simmering sauce. Serve hot in shallow bowls, garnished with a sprinkle of toasted sesame seeds, alongside warm tortillas.
From Oaxacan Roots.