Chicharrón Guisado en Salsa de Miltomate y Pasilla
Chicharrón Guisado en Salsa de Miltomate y Pasilla·(chee-chah-RROHN gee-SAH-doh ehn SAHL-sah deh meel-toh-MAH-teh ee pah-SEE-yah)
La Base de Todo (Salsas, Beans, and Foundations)
In the misty mountains of Oaxaca, a true guisado marries the bright, acidic bite of wild miltomates with the profound, campfire smoke of the rare pasilla mixe chile. Since hunting down that specific pepper in a Midwestern supermarket is a fool's errand, we lean on a smart bit of kitchen alchemy: blending the raisiny depth of a standard dried pasilla with the aggressive, oaky smoke of canned chipotle. Simmered with slightly aged pork cracklings that sponge up the vibrant green sauce without instantly turning to mush, this is a Tuesday night masterpiece that tastes exactly like home.
Ingredients
- tomatillos1 lb
- dried pasilla chiles2
- canned chipotle peppers in adobo2
- garlic cloves3
- white onion1/4 med
- pork cracklings8 oz
- low-sodium chicken broth1 1/2 cup
- neutral oil or lard1 tbsp
- kosher salt1 tsp
Method
- 01
Char the vegetables on a dry metal surface.
Heat a heavy cast-iron skillet or comal over medium-high heat with no oil. Place the tomatillos, unpeeled garlic, and onion directly onto the hot metal, letting them roast until the tomatillos are olive-green and heavily blistered with black spots, about 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the garlic as soon as it softens to the touch.
- 02
Briefly toast and hydrate the dried pasillas.
In the same dry skillet, toast the dried pasillas over medium heat for just 15 to 30 seconds per side, pressing them flat with a spatula until fragrant. Do not let them smoke or they will turn irreversibly bitter. Transfer them to a bowl, cover with hot water, and soak for 15 minutes until fully softened.
- 03
Blend the salsa into a smooth puree.
Peel the blackened skins off the garlic. Drain and discard the soaking water from the pasillas. Add the softened pasillas, roasted tomatillos, garlic, onion, canned chipotles, and 1/2 cup of chicken broth to a blender and process until velvety smooth.
- 04
Shock the salsa in hot fat.
In a wide, deep pan, heat the oil or lard over medium-high heat until shimmering. Pour the blended salsa directly into the pan—it should sizzle aggressively, which cooks out the raw edge of the onion and locks in the vibrant color. Lower the heat and simmer for 5 minutes.
- 05
Simmer the pork cracklings until perfectly tender.
Taste the salsa and season with salt, keeping in mind the pork is already quite salty. Push the broken chicharrón pieces down into the sauce and pour in the remaining 1 cup of broth. Cover, lower the heat to a gentle simmer, and cook for 10 to 15 minutes until the cracklings are completely soft and have released their rich fat into the glossy stew.
Notes
Seek out sturdy pork cracklings.
If you have access to a local carnicería, ask for slightly older or 'correoso' chicharrón for this dish, as fresh, ultra-crispy cracklings disintegrate too quickly when introduced to hot liquid.
From Cook Oaxacan in America.