
Chengdu Fei Chang Fen
成都肥肠粉·(chéng-dū féi cháng fěn)
The 7:30 AM Awakening (Sichuan Breakfasts)
At 7:30 a.m. in Chengdu, the wok hisses, black vinegar hits the air, and locals huddle over plastic stools to inhale bowls of fiery broth and violently chewy sweet potato noodles. The soul rests in the pork intestines—meticulously scrubbed, slowly braised, and bursting with fatty stock. It is historically an all-day ordeal, but by front-loading the offal preparation to the weekend, you can resurrect this masterpiece of Sichuan street food in fifteen minutes on a Tuesday night. Red chili oil stains the chopsticks, steam fogs the windows, and the day finally starts.
Before you start
Scrub the intestines with flour and salt.
Place the raw large and small intestines in a large bowl with the flour and kosher salt, massaging vigorously for 3 to 5 minutes to strip away biological mucus, then rinse thoroughly under cold water.
Neutralize and trim the fat with vinegar.
Pour the white vinegar over the intestines and massage again to neutralize odors. Invert the intestine by pushing the tube back through itself, then peel away the thick globular fat and hard lymph nodes under running water, leaving a thin layer of fat for flavor before reversing it back.
Tie the Mao Jiezi.
Cut the cleaned small intestines into 8-inch lengths and tie a simple overhand knot in the center of each. These knots will act as sponges during the braise, creating a literal explosion of savory soup when bitten.
Blanch the offal and bones.
Submerge the cleaned intestines, Mao Jiezi, and pork neck bones in a pot of cold water with the Shaoxing wine. Boil for 5 minutes, skim the grey scum, then remove the meats and rinse them clean, discarding the boiling water entirely.
Braise the broth.
In an electric pressure cooker, combine the intestines, bones, knotted scallions, ginger, garlic, star anise, cassia bark, whole peppercorns, 2 tablespoons of soy sauce, and the Doubanjiang. Submerge with 6 to 8 cups of water, seal, and cook on High Pressure for 35 minutes.
Store for the weeknight.
Once the pressure releases naturally and the liquid cools, remove the large intestines and slice them into bite-sized rings. Store the rings, the Mao Jiezi, and the strained bone broth in airtight containers in the fridge for up to five days.
Ingredients
- pork large intestine1 1/2 lb
- pork small intestine1/2 lb
- pork neck bones1 lb
- all-purpose flour1/2 cup
- white vinegar1/4 cup
- kosher salt2 tbsp
- scallions1 large bunch
- fresh ginger1 med piece
- garlic3 large cloves
- star anise2 med
- cassia bark1 small piece
- whole Sichuan peppercorns1 tsp
- Shaoxing cooking wine1 tbsp
- Pixian Doubanjiang1 tbsp
- light soy sauce6 tbsp
- dried thick sweet potato noodles500 g
- Baoning vinegar6 tbsp
- Sichuan red chili oil6 tbsp
- Sichuan peppercorn powder2 tsp
- white pepper powder1 tsp
- toasted sesame oil2 tsp
- sugar1 tsp
- crispy soybeans4 tbsp
- pickled mustard greens4 tbsp
- fresh cilantro4 tbsp
- Chinese celery4 tbsp
Method
- 01
Soak the sweet potato noodles.
The moment you walk into the kitchen, submerge the dried sweet potato noodles in a large bowl of hot tap water for 10 to 15 minutes. This jump-start ensures a bouncy, elastic chew without a hard, chalky core.
- 02
Heat the master broth.
In a saucepan, bring your pre-made pork bone broth, along with the sliced intestines and Mao Jiezi, to a rapid simmer.
- 03
Build the Wan Di flavor base.
Arrange four serving bowls on the counter. Into each, meticulously divide the Baoning vinegar, remaining 4 tablespoons of soy sauce, chili oil, ground Sichuan peppercorn, white pepper, sesame oil, sugar, and a pinch of salt.
- 04
Boil the noodles.
Bring a medium pot of water to a rolling boil. Drain the soaked noodles, drop them in, and cook for 3 to 5 minutes until they offer a slight, elastic resistance to the tooth, then transfer them directly into the prepared serving bowls.
- 05
Marry the broth and the bowl.
Ladle the boiling bone broth over the noodles. The scalding heat will instantly volatilize the vinegar and chili oil, sending up the unmistakable, pungent aroma of the Chengdu streets. Top generously with the braised intestine rings and a Mao Jiezi.
- 06
Garnish and serve.
Finish each bowl with a shower of crispy soybeans, pickled mustard greens, chopped scallions, cilantro, and minced celery. Serve immediately, ideally with a flaky flatbread to drag through the crimson oil.
Notes
Embrace the offal.
The soul of this dish relies entirely on the specific textural chew of the pork intestines and the rich fat they contribute to the broth. The cleaning process is not a chore; it is the exact kitchen secret a grandmother passes down to ensure her family eats authentically and well.
Do not compromise on the starch.
Sweet potato starch retains an incredibly resilient chewiness even when submerged in scalding broth. Do not substitute with wheat pasta or rice noodles, which will rapidly disintegrate in the heavy liquid.
Grind your peppercorns fresh.
Pre-ground Sichuan peppercorn powder sitting in a pantry for two years will yield nothing but dust. Toasting and grinding them fresh in a mortar or spice grinder is a non-negotiable step for that required numbing buzz.
From Cook Sichuan in America.