Chalupas Poblanas Rápidas
(chah-loo-pahs poh-blah-nahs rah-pee-dahs)
La Cena y Antojitos (Late-Night Bites & The Art of the Leftover)
A true Poblano chalupa is an exercise in beautiful, ruthless restraint. Born on the banks of the San Francisco River, the authentic street-side chalupa flatly rejects the deep-fried taco shells and cheddar cheese of the Americanized drive-thru. Instead, it relies on the pure, unadulterated alchemy of masa, hot pork lard, deeply charred salsa, and whatever leftover shredded meat the cook has on hand. It is street food stripped down to its absolute, blisteringly hot essentials, designed to transport any first-generation kid right back to their grandmother's kitchen on a busy Tuesday night.
Before you start
Boil the salsa verde ingredients.
Place the tomatillos and serrano peppers in a small saucepan, cover with water, and simmer over medium-high heat for 5 to 7 minutes until the tomatillos turn a dull olive color.
Blend the salsa verde.
Drain the tomatillos and serranos, transfer them to a blender along with a quarter of an onion, one garlic clove, the cilantro, and salt, then blend until completely smooth.
Boil the salsa roja ingredients.
In another saucepan, boil the Roma tomatoes and dried chile moritas in water for about 10 minutes until the tomatoes soften and the chiles plump up.
Blend the salsa roja.
Transfer the tomatoes and chiles to a clean blender with the remaining quarter onion, garlic clove, and salt, blending until smooth.
Fry the salsas for depth.
For a true grandmother's touch, heat a teaspoon of lard in a small skillet until shimmering and carefully pour the blended salsas into the hot fat to fry for 2 to 3 minutes, cooking out the raw edge before they ever touch the chalupas.
Ingredients
- corn tortillas16 small
- pork lard1/4 cup
- leftover shredded meat1 1/2 cup
- white onion1/2 large
- tomatillos1/2 lb
- fresh serrano peppers2 med
- white onion1/4 med
- garlic1 small clove
- fresh cilantro1/4 cup
- kosher salt1/2 tsp
- roma tomatoes3 med
- dried chile morita2 med
- white onion1/4 med
- garlic1 small clove
- kosher salt1/2 tsp
Method
- 01
Warm the tortillas on a dry skillet.
Place a large cast-iron skillet or flat griddle over medium heat and lay the cold tortillas directly on the dry metal for 10 to 15 seconds per side so they become soft and pliable.
- 02
Melt the lard.
Add a generous spoonful of the pork lard to the hot skillet, allowing it to melt and coat the cooking surface.
- 03
Fry the first side of the tortillas.
Place three or four of the warmed tortillas into the hot fat and fry them for about 30 seconds.
- 04
Flip and immediately bathe in salsa.
Flip the tortillas with tongs and, while the second side is frying, immediately spoon about a tablespoon of salsa verde or roja onto each one, spreading it evenly so it sizzles aggressively as it hits the hot fat pooling on the edges.
- 05
Add the meat.
Quickly drop a small pinch of your leftover shredded meat directly onto the bubbling salsa so it can warm through.
- 06
Finish the fry.
Let the chalupas fry for another 30 seconds until the bottoms are golden and slightly crisp, but the center of the tortilla remains chewy and soft.
- 07
Plate and garnish aggressively with onion.
Remove the chalupas to a serving platter, immediately sprinkle generously with the finely diced raw white onion, and serve piping hot.
Notes
Do not skip the lard.
Manteca is the non-negotiable soul of this dish. If you cannot find high-quality pork lard, bacon grease is a phenomenal substitute. Neutral oils will work, but you will sacrifice the foundational nostalgic flavor of a street cart.
Keep it uncompromisingly minimalist.
The state of Puebla holds the high ground in the chalupa wars for a reason. Resist the urge to add cheese, sour cream, or lettuce. The sharp, harsh bite of the raw white onion is precisely what you need to cut through the heavy, rich fat and deep umami of the meat.
Master the art of the leftover.
Chalupas are a historic street food meant to stretch scarce ingredients. Repurpose Sunday's leftover shredded beef, rotisserie chicken, or pulled pork for this Tuesday night masterpiece.
From Cook Mexican in America.