Ceviche Clásico Carretilla

Before you start

• Shock the sliced onion.

  Place the thinly sliced red onion in a bowl of ice-cold water and let sit for at least 15 minutes. This vital grandmotherly trick shocks the onion, making it incredibly crisp, and washes away the harsh sulfuric compounds that would otherwise overpower the delicate fish. Drain well before using.

• Marinate the calamari.

  In a medium bowl, toss the raw calamari rings and tentacles with the egg, mustard, soy sauce, and garlic powder until completely coated. Let this marinate for 10 minutes while you heat your frying oil.

Ingredients

• firm white fish1 lb
• red onion1 med
• habanero or fresno chili1 small
• fresh cilantro leaves2 tbsp
• kosher salt1 1/2 tsp
• ice cubes2 small
• fresh key lime juice3/4 cup
• white fish scraps2 oz
• celery1/4 med
• red onion1/4 small
• garlic clove1 small
• fresh ginger1/2 inch
• cilantro stems3 small
• evaporated milk2 tbsp
• cold water or fish broth1/4 cup
• raw calamari rings and tentacles1 lb
• egg1 large
• yellow mustard1 tbsp
• soy sauce1 tbsp
• garlic powder1/2 tsp
• all-purpose flour1 cup
• cornstarch1/4 cup
• neutral oil1 qt
• sweet potato1 large
• frozen Peruvian choclo or sweet corn1 cup
• corn nuts or toasted cancha1/2 cup

Method

1. 01

   Build the leche de tigre.

   In a blender, combine the lime juice, fish scraps, celery, roughly chopped red onion, smashed garlic, ginger, cilantro stems, cold water, and a generous pinch of salt. Blend on high until completely liquefied, about 30 to 45 seconds. Pass through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl, pressing on the solids. Whisk in the evaporated milk, taste for seasoning, and place in the refrigerator to keep ice-cold.

2. 02

   Fry the chicharrón.

   Heat 2 inches of neutral oil in a heavy pot to 350°F. Whisk the flour and cornstarch together in a shallow dish with a pinch of salt and pepper. Remove the calamari from the wet marinade, toss aggressively in the flour mixture, shake off the excess, and fry in batches for 2 to 3 minutes until deeply golden and crispy. Drain on paper towels and salt immediately.

3. 03

   Assemble the ceviche.

   In a large, chilled mixing bowl, gently toss the cold cubed fish, kosher salt, minced chili, and chopped cilantro leaves for 30 seconds to open the pores of the fish. Add the ice cubes, pour the cold leche de tigre over the fish, and fold in the drained red onions. Stir gently for exactly 2 to 3 minutes until the exterior of the fish turns opaque and white, then remove the unmelted remnants of the ice cubes.

4. 04

   Plate like a carretillero.

   Use a slotted spoon to portion the ceviche into shallow bowls, piling the fish high in the center and pooling the remaining leche de tigre around it. Arrange a slice of sweet potato and a spoonful of corn on the side, then crown the ceviche with a massive handful of hot, crispy fried calamari and a scatter of crunchy corn nuts. Serve immediately.

Notes

• The evaporated milk secret.

  While some culinary purists scoff at it, evaporated milk is a deeply authentic staple of the Lima street cart. It rounds out the aggressive acidity of the limes and helps bind the flavors, creating a creamy broth that is especially helpful if you are using slightly older American limes instead of fresh Peruvian Limón Sutil.

• Why we substitute calamari.

  Peruvian street vendors use giant squid (pota) because it costs pennies, but it is notoriously tough and requires a harsh boiling process to tenderize before frying. Standard American supermarket calamari is actually a culinary upgrade here—it is naturally tender and only requires a quick dredge and fry.