Cervelle de Canut
(ser-VEL duh kah-NOO)
L'Heure de l'Apéro: The Daily Parisian Unwinding
Wednesday at six p.m.: the cork pops, a heel of baguette hits the board, and ten minutes of chopping yields a fierce, savory spread of fresh dairy, sharp vinegar, and pungent herbs. Since true French faisselle cheese is nearly impossible to find in American supermarket aisles, we rig up an identical texture by draining supermarket ricotta or full-fat cottage cheese and smoothing it with sour cream. The absolute secret here is having the patience to let the damn thing rest in the fridge so the raw garlic and herbs can permeate the dairy. Whip the cheese, slice the bread, and pour the wine before you even think about turning on the stove.
Before you start
Remove the green germ from the center of the garlic clove.
This prevents the raw garlic from turning bitter and overpowering the cheese as it rests.
Mince the herbs by hand using a sharp knife.
A food processor will bruise the delicate leaves and turn your pristine white cheese a swampy green.
Ingredients
- full-fat small-curd cottage cheese1 lb
- sour cream3 tbsp
- shallot1 med
- garlic1 small clove
- fresh chives3 tbsp
- fresh flat-leaf parsley2 tbsp
- fresh tarragon1 tbsp
- white wine vinegar1 tbsp
- dry white wine2 tbsp
- extra-virgin olive oil2 tbsp
- fine sea salt1/2 tsp
- black pepper1/4 tsp
Method
- 01
Drain and mash the cottage cheese.
Place the cottage cheese in a fine-mesh strainer over a bowl for five minutes to discard the thin whey, then transfer the curds to a mixing bowl and gently mash with a fork until slightly smoothed but still textured.
- 02
Build the flavor emulsion.
In a small bowl, aggressively whisk the sour cream, white wine vinegar, dry white wine, olive oil, salt, and pepper until perfectly smooth and combined.
- 03
Fold the spread together.
Pour the liquid emulsion over the mashed cottage cheese, add the minced shallot, garlic, and fresh herbs, and gently fold with a rubber spatula until the green flecks are evenly distributed.
- 04
Rest the mixture in the refrigerator for at least two hours.
Do not skip this; the resting time is non-negotiable for allowing the raw alliums to mellow and the dairy to absorb the volatile oils of the herbs.
- 05
Taste and serve chilled.
Give the spread a final stir, adjust the salt and pepper if needed, and serve alongside toasted baguette, warm boiled potatoes, and crisp radishes.
Notes
Walnut oil offers an incredibly authentic Lyonnaise depth.
If you happen to have a bottle of quality French walnut oil on hand, use it in place of the olive oil to instantly elevate the dish.
From Cook French in America.