Ceci in Umido
La Dispensa: The Sicilian-American Pantry Essentials
Two cans of supermarket chickpeas sit beside a heavy pot. Twenty minutes is the entire gap between opening them and ladling a Tuesday night miracle into a bowl. The secret isn't adding a dozen exotic ingredients, but understanding exactly how to treat a few humble ones as the garlic softens under a wooden spoon. Melt an anchovy into the oil until it vanishes, toast the tomato paste to mimic the sun-dried strattu of the homeland, and use the starchy bean liquid to build a velvet sauce. Tear off some crusty bread and wipe the bowl clean.
Ingredients
- extra-virgin olive oil3 tbsp
- garlic2 med clove
- oil-packed anchovy fillets2 small
- double-concentrated tomato paste2 tbsp
- fresh rosemary1 large sprig
- canned chickpeas31 oz
- low-sodium vegetable or chicken broth1/2 cup
- sea salt1/4 tsp
- freshly ground black pepper1/2 tsp
- crusty Italian bread1 large loaf
Method
- 01
Build the savory foundation in shimmering oil.
Heat the olive oil in a medium heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat, then add the smashed garlic and anchovy fillets, mashing the anchovies with a wooden spoon until they completely dissolve into the fat.
- 02
Toast the tomato paste to unlock its depth.
Stir the tomato paste directly into the infused oil and cook for 1 to 2 minutes until it darkens slightly and smells intensely fragrant, replicating the deep, caramelized flavor of traditional Sicilian strattu.
- 03
Introduce the chickpeas and liquid to create the braise.
Add the drained chickpeas, the reserved half-cup of starchy chickpea liquid, the broth, and the rosemary sprig, stirring well to dissolve the caramelized paste into a vibrant, brick-red broth.
- 04
Simmer until the liquid reduces to a starchy, clinging glaze.
Bring to a gentle boil, then immediately reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer uncovered for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally and adding a splash of water if it reduces too quickly.
- 05
Finish with a heavy pour of olive oil and serve with crusty bread.
Remove from the heat, discard the rosemary sprig and garlic cloves, and adjust seasoning with salt and plenty of cracked black pepper; ladle into bowls, finish with your best olive oil, and mop up the sauce with bread.
Notes
Trust the anchovy.
Do not skip it. The anchovy melts away entirely without leaving a fishy taste, acting as a natural MSG substitute that provides a crucial backbone of savory flavor to elevate simple canned beans.
Use the starchy liquid from the can.
Traditional cucina povera relies on the cooking water of dried beans to create a gravy; utilizing the reserved aquafaba from the can is a modern shortcut that provides the starches necessary for a velvety texture in under 20 minutes.
Buy your tomato paste in a tube.
Double-concentrated tube paste is vastly superior to the canned stuff for this application—it closely mimics the intense, sun-dried strattu of the homeland and prevents waste since you only need two tablespoons.