Cazzilli
Cazzilli·(cah-TZEEL-lee)
Rosticceria at Home: After-School Snacks & Palermo Street Food
At three in the afternoon in the historic Vucciria market in Palermo, a paper cone changes hands, and your senses are hijacked by sizzling oil and the glorious scent of fresh mint as vendors sling these naked potato croquettes. True Sicilian cazzilli are a masterclass in poor-man's cooking: just russet potatoes, black pepper, and herbs. They explode in a cast-iron skillet if you disrespect the technique, but grandma's secret is beautifully simple—moisture is the enemy. By boiling the potatoes in their skins and resting the seasoned mash overnight in the fridge, you lock the starches together, turning a fragile dough into a crisp-shelled bite. When the oil hisses, fry them hard, and eat them standing at the counter.
Before you start
Cook the potatoes the night before.
Place the whole, unpeeled potatoes in a large pot, cover them with cold, heavily salted water, and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat until a knife easily pierces the center, about 30 to 40 minutes.
Rice and season the hot potatoes.
Drain the potatoes and, using a kitchen towel to protect your hands from the heat, peel off the skins with a paring knife while they are still hot. Immediately pass them through a potato ricer into a large bowl, then add the parsley, mint, potato starch, salt, and pepper, kneading gently with your hands just until it forms a smooth dough.
Chill the dough overnight.
Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 3 hours, or ideally overnight, allowing the moisture to evaporate and the starches to lock together.
Ingredients
- Russet potatoes1 1/2 lb
- fresh flat-leaf parsley1 1/2 tbsp
- fresh mint1 1/2 tbsp
- potato starch2 tbsp
- kosher salt1 1/2 tsp
- black pepper1/2 tsp
- peanut oil1 qt
- olive oil1 tbsp
- lemon1 med
Method
- 01
Shape the cold potato dough into logs.
Rub a few drops of olive oil onto your palms to prevent the starchy dough from sticking, scoop about one generous tablespoon of dough, and roll it between your hands to form a smooth, 2-inch long oval, placing it on a parchment-lined baking sheet.
- 02
Heat the frying oil to 350°F.
In a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, heat about 2 inches of peanut oil over medium-high heat until it reaches 350°F on a deep-fry thermometer.
- 03
Fry a single test croquette to check the moisture.
Drop one cazzillo into the oil; if it holds its shape perfectly, proceed, but if it splits open or absorbs too much oil, dump the shaped croquettes back into the bowl, knead in another 1 to 2 tablespoons of potato starch, and reshape.
- 04
Fry the remaining croquettes in small batches.
Fry 5 or 6 at a time to avoid dropping the oil temperature, turning them gently with a slotted spoon until they are a deep, even golden brown, about 3 to 4 minutes per batch.
- 05
Drain, season, and serve immediately.
Transfer the hot cazzilli to a plate lined with paper towels to drain, sprinkle with a final pinch of kosher salt while they are still glistening, and serve right away with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice.
Notes
Never use a food processor to mash the potatoes.
Blenders and food processors release too much starch too quickly due to mechanical shearing, turning the potatoes into an unusable, gluey paste; always use a ricer or food mill.
Russet potatoes are absolutely essential.
Do not substitute with waxy red or new potatoes, as their high moisture and low starch content will inevitably cause the croquettes to disintegrate in the frying oil.
Baking the potatoes is a foolproof alternative.
If you want to eliminate the risk of waterlogging the potatoes entirely, you can bake the whole, unpeeled potatoes at 400°F for 50 to 60 minutes instead of boiling them.