Casarecce alla Norma
(kah-sah-RETCH-eh ah-lah NOR-mah)
Tuesday Night Cucina Povera: Sicilian Pantry Magic
If there is one dish that captures the undisputed, ungentrified soul of Catania on a plate, it is Pasta alla Norma. Born of necessity and named for a Bellini opera by a playwright who recognized a masterpiece, this is cucina povera at its absolute finest. The secret a Sicilian grandmother would fiercely guard is simple: you must fry the eggplant. Do not bake it, do not peel it. Frying the dark skin and spongy flesh in hot oil yields a molten, silky interior that defines the old-world flavor of the dish. Traditionally finished with aged ricotta salata, a firm block of Greek feta or Mexican cotija perfectly mimics that dry, salty snowfall for a busy weeknight in the American suburbs.
Ingredients
- globe eggplant1 large
- all-purpose flour3 tbsp
- neutral frying oil1/2 cup
- extra-virgin olive oil3 tbsp
- garlic3 large
- whole peeled tomatoes or Italian passata28 oz
- dried casarecce pasta3/4 lb
- fresh basil1 large bunch
- firm feta or cotija cheese1/2 cup
- kosher saltto taste
- black pepperto taste
- crushed red pepper flakes1 pinch
Method
- 01
Toss the eggplant cubes with flour to create a microscopic seal.
Place the unpeeled cubes in a large bowl, sprinkle with the flour, and toss vigorously with your hands until evenly dusted. This traditional trick prevents the spongy flesh from acting like a sponge and absorbing excess oil.
- 02
Fry the eggplant until deeply golden and molten inside.
Heat the neutral oil in a wide skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Working in two batches to avoid overcrowding, fry the cubes for 5 to 7 minutes until soft all the way through, transferring to a paper towel-lined plate and seasoning immediately with salt. Discard the remaining oil and wipe the skillet clean.
- 03
Build a fast, vibrant tomato sugo.
Return the skillet to medium heat with the extra-virgin olive oil, smashed garlic, and red pepper flakes. Sauté gently until the garlic is fragrant and golden but not burnt, then carefully pour in the crushed tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper, and simmer uncovered for 15 to 20 minutes to concentrate the sugars.
- 04
Infuse the sauce with basil.
Once the sauce has reduced and thickened, fish out and discard the garlic cloves. Tear half of the fresh basil leaves by hand and stir them into the sauce.
- 05
Boil the casarecce until exactly al dente.
While the sauce simmers, drop the pasta into a large pot of heavily salted boiling water. Before draining, scoop out a half cup of the starchy cooking water and set it aside.
- 06
Marry the pasta and sauce in the skillet.
Add the drained casarecce directly into the simmering tomato sauce along with exactly half of the fried eggplant cubes. Toss vigorously over medium heat for one minute, adding a splash of pasta water if needed to create a glossy glaze that coats every twist of the pasta.
- 07
Garnish and serve immediately.
Transfer the pasta to a warm serving platter or individual bowls. Crown with the remaining crispy eggplant, shower generously with the crumbled cheese, and finish with the remaining torn basil leaves.