Carpaccio de Thon à la Vinaigrette de Poireaux
Carpaccio de Thon à la Vinaigrette de Poireaux·(car-PAH-cho duh TOHN a la vee-neh-GREHT duh pwah-RO)
Chapter 1 — Apéro & Hors d'Œuvres
A sushi-grade yellowfin loin is unforgiving. An eighth of an inch separates a clumsy slab from the definitive opening act at institutions from Spring Street in New York to 14th Street in DC, demanding exacting knife work, authentic Dijon, and the patience to let the vinaigrette steep overnight. Chill the ceramic plates, whisk the Champagne vinegar until the mustard bites, and lay the slices flat—that first bite will taste exactly like a bustling Friday night at Pastis.
Before you start
Prepare the ice bath.
Have a bowl of ice water ready by the stove before dropping the leeks into boiling water.
Chill the plates.
Place four large, flat appetizer plates in the refrigerator well before slicing the tuna, as a warm plate will immediately degrade the texture of the raw fish.
Ingredients
- leeks2 small
- kosher salt1 tbsp
- Champagne vinegar2 tbsp
- fresh lemon juice1 tbsp
- authentic French Dijon mustard1 tsp
- shallot1 small
- extra virgin olive oil1/4 cup
- grapeseed or canola oil1/4 cup
- freshly cracked black pepper1/2 tsp
- sushi-grade Yellowfin or Bigeye tuna block1 lb
- Fleur de Sel1 tsp
- fresh chives1 tbsp
Method
- 01
Blanch the minced leeks to remove their harsh raw bite.
Bring a small saucepan of heavily salted water to a rolling boil and drop in the minced leeks for exactly 60 seconds. Immediately strain and plunge them into an ice bath to lock in their color and crunch, then drain through a fine-mesh sieve and press firmly with paper towels to remove absolutely all excess moisture.
- 02
Build the emulsion with confidence.
In a medium bowl, combine the Champagne vinegar, lemon juice, Dijon mustard, minced shallot, and a generous pinch of kosher salt, letting it sit for five minutes. Whisking vigorously, add the olive and grapeseed oils in a slow, steady, microscopic drizzle until the mixture transforms into a creamy, homogenous dressing.
- 03
Steep the vinaigrette overnight.
Fold the thoroughly dried, blanched leeks into the emulsified vinaigrette, season with freshly cracked black pepper, and refrigerate in an airtight container overnight. This cold steep allows the fat-soluble flavors of the leek to perfume the oil, capturing true brasserie depth.
- 04
Freeze the tuna to ensure razor-thin slices.
Exactly twenty to thirty minutes before you plan to serve, place the plastic-wrapped block of tuna in the freezer. This firms up the moisture within the flesh, creating a rigid structure that allows your knife to glide through without tearing the delicate muscle fibers.
- 05
Slice the carpaccio and plate on a chilled canvas.
Using a long, razor-sharp knife and single-stroke pulls, slice the semi-frozen tuna against the grain into translucent sheets less than one-eighth of an inch thick. Lay them flat on chilled plates, overlapping slightly to create a delicate mosaic.
- 06
Dress the tuna and serve immediately.
Whisk the rested leek vinaigrette to reawaken the emulsion, then spoon it generously over the tuna so the fish shimmers under the dressing. Finish with a highly disciplined sprinkle of Fleur de Sel, a crack of fresh pepper, and a scatter of minced chives.
Notes
The Vinaigrette Rescue Protocol.
If you rush the oil and the vinaigrette breaks into a greasy, separated mess, do not panic. Place a fresh teaspoon of Dijon mustard in a clean bowl and slowly whisk the broken mixture into the new mustard, drop by drop, to re-establish the emulsion.
Sourcing the Tuna.
Do not attempt this with standard supermarket tuna steaks, which are often handled poorly and injected with carbon monoxide. Seek out trusted, sushi-grade Yellowfin or Bigeye from a reputable fishmonger.