Camembert Rôti en Cocotte

Camembert Rôti en Cocotte

Chapter 4 — The Cheese & Bread Course

There is a distinct moment in any great American French bistro when a waiter rushes past carrying a miniature cast-iron pot radiating roasted garlic, melting butterfat, and the intoxicating funk of warm bloomy-rind cheese. Executing this with true brasserie depth requires time and the right vessel. We demand a heavy cast-iron cocotte to hold radiant heat and an overnight maceration so fat-soluble flavor compounds permeate the paste. Served alongside a deeply savory, 90-minute onion confit, this is exactly what Spring Street tastes like.

Before you start

  • Remove the Camembert from all packaging and place the naked wheel into a 4-inch miniature cast-iron cocotte.

  • Score the top rind in a deep crosshatch pattern and wedge the garlic slivers and thyme sprigs into the cuts.

  • Pour the white wine or Pastis directly over the top to seep into the cuts, then finish with black pepper.

  • Cover the cocotte with its heavy lid and refrigerate overnight to let the aromatics bind with the milk fats.

Ingredients

  • wheel premium pasteurized Camembert8 oz
  • clove garlic1 large
  • sprigs fresh thyme4 small
  • dry white wine or Pastis1 tbsp
  • black pepper1/4 tsp
  • yellow onions3 large
  • cultured French-style butter3 tbsp
  • kosher salt1 tsp
  • Champagne vinegar2 tbsp
  • rustic baguette1 large

Method

  1. 01

    Melt the cultured butter over medium-low heat in a heavy Dutch oven.

    Add the sliced onions and kosher salt, stirring to coat them completely in the butterfat.

  2. 02

    Caramelize the onions patiently for 60 to 75 minutes.

    After the onions sweat for the first 15 minutes, turn the heat to low and stir every 10 minutes until they reach a deep, rich mahogany color bordering on marmalade.

  3. 03

    Deglaze the dark, jammy onions with the Champagne vinegar.

    Scrape up any fond on the bottom of the pan and cook for 2 more minutes until the harsh vinegar smell dissipates, then transfer to a serving bowl.

  4. 04

    One hour before serving, preheat the oven to 350°F and remove the cocotte from the refrigerator to temper.

  5. 05

    Roast the uncovered cheese on the center rack for exactly 15 to 20 minutes.

    You are looking for the cheese to be slightly puffed, bubbling at the scored edges, and molten to the heart—do not overbake, or the proteins will separate from the fat.

  6. 06

    Serve immediately in the blazing hot cast-iron cocotte.

    Transfer to a wooden board alongside the warm onion confit and toasted baguette for immediate dipping.

Notes

  • Authentic raw-milk Camembert de Normandie is illegal in the United States.

    Due to FDA regulations on 60-day aging, source a high-quality imported pasteurized Camembert or an exceptional American artisanal soft-ripened cheese instead.

  • Cultured butter at 83 percent fat is a chemical necessity for the onion confit.

    Standard American butter contains too much water, which leads to boiling rather than true frying and significantly impedes the Maillard reaction.

  • If the cheese overbakes and the fat separates, force a temporary emulsion.

    Transfer the broken cheese to a small food processor, add a tablespoon of very hot water, and pulse vigorously for 5 seconds before serving immediately in a ramekin.

  • If you lack a miniature cast-iron cocotte, use the original wooden box with extreme caution.

    Ensure the box is stapled rather than glued, soak it in water for 10 minutes prior to baking, and wrap the bottom in foil to catch leaks.

From Cook French Bistro at Home.

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