Broccoli Goma-ae
ブロッコリーのごま和え·(burokkorī no goma-ae)
Asa-gohan & Obento: The Morning Rhythm
At 6:30 a.m., the bento boxes sit empty on the counter. Supermarket broccoli is a staple of this morning routine because its tight florets act like microscopic sponges, trapping maximum amounts of that glorious sesame dressing, but the secret to this dish is moisture control. Resist the urge to shock boiled vegetables in ice water; let the broccoli steam off naturally so it doesn't turn your dressing into watery sludge—then grab a standard mortar, add a splash of Kikkoman soy sauce, grind until the sesame seeds shatter, and toss the florets while they are still warm.
Before you start
Break down the broccoli into even, bite-sized florets.
If a floret is too large, make a small slit at the base of its stem and pull it apart with your fingers rather than chopping straight down the middle, which creates a crumbly mess.
Ingredients
- broccoli1 large
- kosher salt1 tsp
- white sesame seeds3 tbsp
- granulated sugar1 tbsp
- Japanese soy sauce1 tbsp
- black pepper1/8 tsp
Method
- 01
Boil or microwave the broccoli until just tender but still snappy.
For the stovetop, boil in water seasoned with the kosher salt for 2 to 3 minutes, starting with the stalks 30 seconds before adding the florets. For the weeknight method, microwave the wet, washed pieces in a loosely covered bowl on high for 2 to 3 minutes.
- 02
Drain the broccoli immediately and let it cool naturally at room temperature.
Do not rinse it or shock it in ice water. Spread the pieces out in a colander and let the residual heat evaporate the excess moisture.
- 03
Toast the sesame seeds in a dry skillet over medium-low heat until fragrant and light golden brown.
Keep the pan moving for 2 to 3 minutes. The moment they smell distinctly nutty and look slightly plump, remove them from the heat immediately so they do not burn.
- 04
Crush the toasted seeds until half are pulverized into an oily powder and the rest remain whole.
A Japanese suribachi mortar is traditional, but pulsing them briefly in a spice grinder or crushing them in a zip-top bag with a rolling pin works perfectly.
- 05
Combine the ground sesame seeds with the sugar, soy sauce, and black pepper to form a thick, damp paste.
This 3:1:1 ratio of sesame to soy to sugar is the golden rule of Japanese seasoning; memorize it, and you can dress any vegetable you have on hand.
- 06
Add the cooled, dry broccoli to the dressing and toss thoroughly from the bottom up.
Ensure the sesame paste gets pushed deep into the crevices of every floret. If packing for tomorrow's bento, make absolutely sure the broccoli has reached room temperature before dressing to prevent condensation.
Notes
Never shock the broccoli in ice water.
Western culinary schools preach the ice bath to lock in color, but it waterlogs the microscopic florets. Authentic goma-ae relies on a completely dry vegetable to hold onto the thick dressing without turning into a watery soup.
Do not throw away the stalk.
The core of the broccoli stalk is sweet, tender, and provides excellent crunch. Aggressively peel away the tough, fibrous outer skin and slice the pale green center into bite-sized medallions.
From Cook Japanese in America.