Bocadillo de Calamares
(boh-kah-dee-yoh deh kah-lah-mah-rehs)
Chapter 4: Larger Shares
If you’ve ever wandered the streets around Madrid’s Plaza Mayor, you know the scent: hot olive oil, salty sea air, and fresh bread. The bocadillo de calamares is Madrid’s ultimate street food, but it has crystallized into an absolute must-order at high-end American tapas joints. When you sit down in a candlelit room and ask for the squid sandwich, you aren't getting a dense, heavily battered pub snack. You get an impossibly light, shatteringly crisp fry, stuffed into a warm bun and slicked with a bright, garlic-citrus alioli. We skip the wet beer batters entirely in favor of a dry dredge cut with chickpea flour—the authentic Andalusian secret to an elegant crust. Prep the squid, the dredge, and the alioli hours before the doorbell rings, leaving only a spectacular ninety-second flash-fry for when the drinks are flowing.
Before you start
Tenderize the squid.
Combine the sliced squid rings, reserved tentacles, and milk in a bowl, then cover and refrigerate for up to 2 hours to break down the proteins and ensure a tender bite.
Mix the dry dredge.
In a large zip-top bag or wide bowl, whisk together the all-purpose flour, chickpea flour, salt, and smoked paprika, eliminating any measuring during service.
Prepare the citrus alioli.
In a small bowl, thoroughly combine the mayonnaise, crushed garlic, lemon zest, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, and extra-virgin olive oil, then cover and refrigerate to let the flavors meld.
Ingredients
- whole fresh European squid1 lb
- whole milk1 cup
- all-purpose flour1/2 cup
- chickpea flour1/2 cup
- fine sea salt1 tsp
- sweet smoked paprika1/2 tsp
- mild Spanish olive oil1 qt
- crusty baguettes2 med
- mayonnaise1/2 cup
- garlic1 large clove
- lemon1 med
- extra-virgin Spanish olive oil1 tbsp
Method
- 01
Bring the oil to high heat.
Pour two inches of mild Spanish olive oil into a heavy-bottomed Dutch oven or deep skillet and heat over medium-high until a deep-fry thermometer registers 375°F.
- 02
Aggressively dry the squid.
Drain the squid from the milk and lay the rings on a baking sheet lined with several layers of paper towels, patting them completely dry from the top so the flour creates a micro-thin crust rather than a doughy paste.
- 03
Coat and shake the squid.
Toss a handful of the dried squid rings into the bag with the flour mixture, shake vigorously to coat, then dump them into a wire mesh strainer and shake forcefully to knock off all excess flour.
- 04
Flash-fry the calamari.
Carefully drop the dusted squid into the hot oil in small batches, frying for just 90 to 120 seconds until golden and curled, then transfer to a wire rack or paper towels and hit immediately with a pinch of salt.
- 05
Build the bocadillo.
Smear a generous layer of the garlic-citrus alioli on the toasted bread, pile the hot, crispy squid rings high, squeeze a fresh lemon wedge directly over the meat, and close the sandwich to serve immediately.
Notes
Source real European squid.
Avoid pre-cut frozen rings and specifically avoid jumbo flying squid (pota), which is far too rubbery for a delicate sandwich.
Do not substitute the chickpea flour.
Chickpea flour (harina de garbanzo) is the Andalusian secret to frying seafood; it browns beautifully and absorbs less oil, ensuring an impossibly crisp, non-greasy crust.
The shake is critical.
Knocking the excess flour off the squid in a strainer is what separates a dense pub snack from a high-end tapas presentation.