Bocadillo de Calamares
(boh-kah-DEE-yoh deh kah-lah-MAH-rehs)
Chapter 4: Larger Shares
Midnight just off Plaza Mayor, crumpled napkins litter the floor, the fryer oil hisses behind the counter, a cold bottle of Albariño sweats on the bar, and a mountain of battered squid is shoved into a crusty baguette. A proper bocadillo de calamares isn't a dense, pub-grub gut bomb. It is a light fry slicked with a bright, citrus-spiked alioli. The secret to that ethereal crunch lies in the Andalusian trick of using chickpea flour in the dredge, and forcefully shaking off the excess before a ninety-second flash fry. Squeeze the lemon, pass the napkins, and eat it standing up.
Before you start
Tenderize the squid.
Submerge the cleaned squid rings and tentacles in the milk and refrigerate for up to two hours to break down the proteins.
Mix the dry dredge.
Whisk the all-purpose flour, chickpea flour, salt, and smoked paprika together in a large zip-top bag or wide bowl.
Prepare the alioli.
Stir the mayonnaise, garlic paste, lemon zest, lemon juice, and extra virgin olive oil together in a small bowl, then cover and chill until service.
Ingredients
- whole fresh squid1 lb
- whole milk1 cup
- all-purpose flour1/2 cup
- chickpea flour1/2 cup
- fine sea salt1 tsp
- sweet Pimentón de la Vera1/2 tsp
- mild Spanish olive oil1 qt
- small crusty baguettes2 med
- mayonnaise1/2 cup
- garlic1 large clove
- lemon1/2 med
- extra virgin olive oil1 tbsp
- lemon1 med
Method
- 01
Heat the frying oil.
Pour two inches of mild Spanish olive oil into a heavy-bottomed Dutch oven or deep skillet and heat to 375°F over medium-high.
- 02
Dry the squid aggressively.
Drain the squid from the milk and pat the rings and tentacles completely bone-dry with multiple layers of paper towels so the flour won't clump into a gummy paste.
- 03
Dredge and shake.
Toss the dry squid into the flour mixture to coat, then dump everything into a wire mesh strainer and shake it forcefully over the sink to knock off all excess flour.
- 04
Flash fry the calamari.
Drop the dusted squid into the hot oil in small batches, frying for exactly 90 to 120 seconds until golden and curled, then transfer to a wire rack and hit with a pinch of salt.
- 05
Assemble the bocadillos.
Smear the toasted bread with the chilled citrus alioli, pile the hot squid as high as you can manage, squeeze a fresh lemon wedge over the top, and slice into shareable two-inch portions.
Notes
Sourcing the right squid.
Ask your fishmonger for fresh European squid (calamar) and explicitly avoid jumbo flying squid (pota), which has a rubbery texture that will absolutely ruin the sandwich.
Do not substitute the chickpea flour.
Harina de garbanzo is the non-negotiable secret to Andalusian frying; it absorbs far less oil and browns better than standard wheat flour, providing that shattering restaurant-quality crust.