Black Bean and Quesillo Tetelas
Tetelas Mixtecas Rellenas de Frijol y Quesillo·(teh-TEH-lahs meesh-TEH-kahs reh-YEH-nahs deh free-HOLE ee keh-SEE-yoh)
Mañanas en la Cocina: Breakfasts & Morning Rhythms
To know the morning air of Oaxaca's Mixteca region, one only needs to smell toasting avocado leaves. Tetelas are brilliant, geometric pockets of masa engineered centuries ago to carry rich black beans and melted string cheese into the fields without leaking. The dish relies entirely on a few deeply traditional components: fresh masa, rich pork lard, and the irreplaceable anise aroma of the Mexican avocado leaf. By preparing the authentic bean paste over the weekend, forming these blistered, savory triangles becomes an effortless, soul-warming weeknight revelation.
Ingredients
- pork lard1 tbsp
- white onion1/4 cup
- garlic1 large clove
- dried avocado leaves3 med
- cooked black beans1 1/2 cup
- chicken broth1/4 cup
- premium masa harina2 cup
- kosher salt1/2 tsp
- warm water1 3/4 cup
- Quesillo or Oaxaca cheese1 1/2 cup
Method
- 01
Toast the avocado leaves in a dry skillet over medium heat for a few seconds until highly fragrant.
Remove them from the heat the moment they release their aroma and crumble them into a blender.
- 02
Sauté the onion and garlic in melted lard until soft, then puree with the beans and toasted leaves.
Melt the lard in the same skillet, cook the aromatics for about five minutes, then transfer to the blender with the black beans and a small splash of broth to blend until smooth.
- 03
Fry the bean puree over medium-low heat until reduced to a thick, spreadable paste.
Return the beans to the skillet and stir constantly until they are thick enough to spread like peanut butter; they must be completely cool before filling the masa.
- 04
Knead the masa harina, salt, and warm water together in a large bowl until a pliable dough forms.
Mix with your hands until the dough feels like soft clay; if you press your thumb into a small ball and the edges crack deeply, work in another tablespoon of water.
- 05
Press a golf-ball-sized piece of dough between two sheets of plastic to form a six-inch circle.
Use a heavy tortilla press to flatten the masa slightly thicker than a standard taco tortilla.
- 06
Spoon the cooled bean paste and a pinch of shredded cheese into the center of the masa.
Remove the top layer of plastic but leave the bottom sheet, adding no more than a tablespoon and a half of beans to ensure the pocket can completely seal.
- 07
Fold the masa inward from three sides to create a sealed, equilateral triangle.
Using the bottom plastic sheet to help lift the delicate dough, fold the left third inward over the filling, overlap with the right third, and fold the bottom flap upwards, gently patting the seams flat.
- 08
Dry-roast the tetelas on a hot cast-iron skillet or comal until the masa is toasted and opaque.
Cook the pockets seam-side down first to lock the folds in place, allowing two to three minutes per side to develop rustic, charred spots.
Notes
Sourcing true Mexican avocado leaves is non-negotiable for authentic flavor.
The unique estragole compounds in the dried leaves provide the signature anise-like aroma that defines Oaxacan cooking; substituting with garlic or cumin will fundamentally alter the dish.
Rely on pork lard for structurally sound, flavorful beans.
Refrying the beans in manteca emulsifies the starches and drives off excess moisture, ensuring the paste won't steam and burst through the delicate masa on the skillet.
From Oaxacan Roots.