Biff à la Lindström
Biff à la Lindström·(biff ah lah lind-strurm)
Husmanskost: The Honest Weeknight Skillet
It looks like a burger, but eats like a luxury steakhouse dinner. Invented in 1862 by a Swedish-Russian captain yearning for the flavors of his childhood, Biff à la Lindström is a masterclass in honest, everyday cooking. The genius is in the alchemy: the sweet earthiness of pickled beets cuts through the rich beef, while chopped capers deliver sharp bursts of brine. Don't be tempted to throw this on a bun. It is a proper plated affair meant to be eaten with a knife, a fork, and a generous slick of melting butter.
Before you start
Make the parsley butter.
Mash the 4 tablespoons of softened butter with the finely chopped parsley and a pinch of salt. Set aside to melt over the finished plates.
Ingredients
- plain breadcrumbs1/4 cup
- water3 tbsp
- pickled beet juice1 tbsp
- jarred sweet pickled beets1/2 cup
- capers2 tbsp
- yellow onion1/2 med
- Dijon mustard1 tbsp
- Worcestershire sauce1 tsp
- kosher salt1 tsp
- black pepper1/2 tsp
- egg1 large
- 80/20 ground chuck1 lb
- unsalted butter2 tbsp
- neutral oil1 tbsp
- eggs4 large
- baby potatoes1 lb
- unsalted butter4 tbsp
- fresh parsley2 tbsp
Method
- 01
Hydrate the breadcrumbs.
In a large mixing bowl, combine the breadcrumbs, cold water, and beet juice. Let it sit for 5 minutes to swell into a panade, replacing the traditional, but time-consuming, cold boiled potato.
- 02
Build the flavor base.
To the hydrated breadcrumbs, add the diced beets, capers, grated onion with its juices, Dijon, Worcestershire, salt, pepper, and the single egg. Whisk until it forms a colorful slurry.
- 03
Fold in the beef with absolute care.
Add the ground chuck to the bowl. Gently work the meat into the beet mixture with a fork or your fingers, stopping the exact second it is evenly distributed. Overmixing cross-links the proteins and turns delicate patties into tough hockey pucks.
- 04
Shape and dimple the patties.
With wet hands, divide the mixture into eight equal, three-quarter-inch thick patties. Press your thumb into the center of each to create a shallow dimple, ensuring they fry perfectly flat instead of bulging up in the skillet.
- 05
Fry to a hard, golden crust.
Heat a heavy cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat with the 2 tablespoons of butter and the oil. When the butter stops foaming, fry the patties in batches for 3 to 4 minutes per side until deeply caramelized on the outside but still juicy and slightly pink in the center. Move to a warm platter.
- 06
Fry the eggs.
Give the skillet a quick wipe, add a touch more butter if needed, and fry the four remaining eggs sunny-side up until the whites are set but the yolks remain runny.
- 07
Plate the honest way.
Serve two hot patties topped with a fried egg, accompanied by boiled potatoes. Drop a spoonful of the parsley butter over the top so it melts luxuriously into the dish.
Notes
Buy the right beets.
Do not buy plain canned beets or sweet-and-sour Harvard beets. You want the tangy, sweet jarred pickled beets, usually found near the pickles and olives in the supermarket.
Grate the onion.
Grating ensures the onion melts invisibly into the meat. Chopping it leaves raw, crunchy bits that ruin the tender texture of the beef.