Besan Wala Naan
بیسن والا نان·(be-san wa-la naan)
Sunday Nashta (The Weekend Ritual)
There is a distinct sound of rain hitting an Ohio suburb that triggers a visceral craving for the walled city of Lahore. For the first-generation kid, that craving is answered by besan wala naan. This isn't some baked, cracker-like diaspora compromise; this is the genuine article, shallow-fried to a violent crisp. The street-vendor secret, guarded closely by grandmothers, is a fleeting dip in water before the bread hits the hot oil. That microsecond of hydration creates a steam barrier, yielding a fritter-like crust on top and pillowy, oil-free salvation underneath.
Before you start
Stale your naan.
If using freshly baked store-bought naan, leave it out on the counter overnight. Day-old bread dehydrates slightly, allowing it to hold the heavy wet batter without disintegrating.
Ingredients
- store-bought tandoori naan4 large
- besan2 cup
- yellow onion1 med
- russet potatoes2 med
- fresh cilantro1/2 cup
- fresh mint leaves1/4 cup
- Thai green chilies3 small
- anardana1 tbsp
- coriander seeds1 tbsp
- cumin seeds1 tsp
- red chili flakes1 tsp
- red chili powder1 tsp
- salt1 tsp
- ajwain1/2 tsp
- kasuri methi1/2 tsp
- turmeric powder1/4 tsp
- water1 cup
- neutral oil1 cup
Method
- 01
Toss the dry batter components together.
In a large mixing bowl, combine the sifted besan, grated potatoes, diced onion, cilantro, mint, green chilies, and all the spices. Toss everything together with your hands so the vegetables are evenly coated in the dry flour.
- 02
Hydrate the mixture into a thick, sticky paste.
Gradually add water to the bowl, one tablespoon at a time, mixing with your hands until it resembles heavy spackle. It must be thick; if it is too runny, the batter will slide right off the bread.
- 03
Briefly dip the naan in water to create a steam barrier.
Pour half a cup of water onto a large plate and quickly dip one side of a naan into the water, then flip and dip the other side. Do not soak it—total time in the water should be no more than three seconds before shaking off the excess.
- 04
Spread the batter firmly across the damp bread.
Place the hydrated naan on a cutting board, take a generous handful of the besan batter, and spread it evenly across the top. Press it down firmly so the grated potatoes lock into the crevices of the bread, reaching all the way to the edges.
- 05
Fry the naan batter-side down without disturbing it.
Heat a half inch of neutral oil in a wide, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat. Carefully pick up the naan and lay it into the oil, batter-side down. Walk away and do not touch or nudge it for two to three minutes, allowing the besan to form a solid, crispy crust.
- 06
Flip to finish, then serve immediately.
Once the edges look deeply golden and the batter is set, use two wide spatulas to carefully flip the naan over. Fry the bare side for exactly one minute until lightly crisped, then drain on a wire rack and cut into quarters to serve.
Notes
Do not skip the anardana or ajwain.
Anardana (dried pomegranate seeds) provides the sudden bursts of tart acidity that cut through the heavy oil, while ajwain (carom seeds) lends an earthy aroma and aids in digesting the dense gram flour.
Serve with a cooling contrast.
The heavy, fried nature of this street food demands an acidic counterpart. Pair it with a hari chutney raita (yogurt blended with fresh mint and cilantro) or a sweet and sour plum chutney to cut the richness.