Bawan

Bawan

肉圓·(ròuyuán)

Jia-Ting Ju-Can (家庭聚餐) – Heirloom Projects & Holiday Tables

If you grew up in a Taiwanese household, the smell of five-spice and fried shallots hitting a hot wok is the undisputed smell of home. Bawan is the king of the night market—a magnificent architectural feat of savory pork and crunchy bamboo wrapped in a bouncy, translucent dough that defines the essential Taiwanese texture known as 'Q'. Making them looks like magic, but the secret is just high school chemistry: gelatinizing long-grain rice flour into a thick paste before adding sweet potato starch. We're ditching the specialized tin molds for the ceramic ramekins gathering dust in your cupboard. Steam a massive batch on a Sunday, shallow-fry them for that authentic Changhua bite, or just nuke one on a Wednesday night. One bite, and you're back.

Before you start

  • Hunt down the right flours.

    Zailai rice flour (long-grain rice flour) is structurally necessary; do not use glutinous rice flour or Mochiko, or your wrapper will melt into an unrecognizable puddle.

  • Nail the 'Q' texture.

    Gelatinization is non-negotiable; you must cook the rice flour into a thick glue before adding the sweet potato starch to build the chewiness Taiwanese food is famous for.

Ingredients

  • pork shoulder3/4 lb
  • canned bamboo shoots1 cup
  • dried shiitake mushrooms6 large
  • fried shallots3 tbsp
  • soy sauce2 tbsp
  • rice wine1 tbsp
  • sesame oil1 tbsp
  • granulated sugar1 tsp
  • five-spice powder1/2 tsp
  • white pepper1/2 tsp
  • salt1/4 tsp
  • tapioca starch1 tbsp
  • white miso paste2 tbsp
  • ketchup2 tbsp
  • sweet chili sauce1 tbsp
  • granulated sugar2 tbsp
  • soy sauce1 tbsp
  • water1 cup
  • long-grain rice flour2 tbsp
  • long-grain rice flour1/2 cup
  • tapioca starch1/4 cup
  • water3 cup
  • sweet potato starch2 1/2 cup
  • neutral oil2 tbsp
  • garlic2 clove
  • fresh cilantro1/4 cup

Method

  1. 01

    Mix the meat filling.

    Combine the diced pork, 2 tbsp soy sauce, rice wine, 1 tsp sugar, five-spice, white pepper, salt, sesame oil, and 1 tbsp tapioca starch in a bowl, stirring vigorously in one direction until sticky and pale to emulsify the proteins.

  2. 02

    Sauté the aromatics.

    Heat a splash of oil in a skillet over medium-high heat, fry the diced shiitake mushrooms until deeply fragrant, then toss in the bamboo shoots to dry them out slightly; fold this and the fried shallots into the raw pork mixture and chill.

  3. 03

    Simmer the Haishan sauce.

    Whisk 1 cup water, miso, ketchup, sweet chili, 2 tbsp sugar, and 1 tbsp soy sauce in a saucepan over medium-low heat.

  4. 04

    Thicken the sauce.

    Whisk the 2 tbsp rice flour slurry into the simmering sauce until it turns glossy and thick, cooking for one minute before removing from heat.

  5. 05

    Gelatinize the wrapper base.

    Whisk 1/2 cup long-grain rice flour and 1/4 cup tapioca starch with 1 cup cold water in a pot off the heat until completely smooth, then stir in the remaining 2 cups of water.

  6. 06

    Cook the paste.

    Place the pot over medium-low heat and stir continuously for 3 to 5 minutes until the mixture seizes into a highly viscous, sticky white paste; remove immediately from the heat and let it cool until warm but not boiling hot.

  7. 07

    Fold in the sweet potato starch.

    Gradually fold the sweet potato starch into the warm paste with a sturdy spatula until a very thick, shaggy dough forms, taking care not to overmix.

  8. 08

    Prep the ramekins.

    Aggressively coat the inside of 8 to 10 shallow ramekins with neutral oil to ensure the sticky dough releases after steaming.

  9. 09

    Assemble the dumplings.

    Using wet hands, press 2 tablespoons of dough into the bottom and up the sides of each ramekin, drop in 2 tablespoons of the pork filling, and seal the top with another spoonful of dough.

  10. 10

    Steam the Bawan.

    Place the ramekins in a steamer basket over boiling water and steam covered for 20 minutes until the wrappers turn translucent and the meat is cooked through.

  11. 11

    Cool and unmold.

    Let the ramekins cool for at least 10 minutes so the starch sets, then use an oiled spoon to gently pry the dumplings out.

  12. 12

    Garnish and serve.

    Snip an 'X' into the top of the dumpling with kitchen shears, drown it in warm Haishan sauce, and garnish with garlic paste and chopped cilantro.

Notes

  • Go full Changhua style.

    For the ultimate authentic weekend project, let the steamed dumplings cool completely, then gently poach them in 265°F neutral oil for 2 to 3 minutes until the exterior blisters slightly and becomes slick and chewy.

  • Stock the weeknight freezer.

    Freeze the steamed dumplings individually wrapped in oiled plastic; on a busy Wednesday, you can microwave one under a damp paper towel for 90 seconds for instant comfort.

From The Taiwanese-American Table.

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