Banderillas de Encurtidos
(bahn-deh-REE-yahs deh ehn-koor-TEE-dohs)
La Hora del Vermut
Named after the barbed darts of a bullfight, the banderilla is the quintessential Spanish bar snack, an unpretentious masterpiece born of sheer resourcefulness. It requires absolutely no cooking, relying entirely on the sharp, unapologetic contrast of acid, salt, and fat to awaken the palate before a meal. An abuela's secret isn't found in a hot pan, but in the deliberate layering of standard pantry staples—crisp cocktail onions, briny olives, and melt-in-the-mouth anchovies. It is a riot of textures and flavors on a stick, proving that with the right jars from any typical supermarket, you can recreate the exact magic of a San Sebastián tavern right in your own kitchen.
Before you start
Dry the pickled vegetables completely.
Commercial American pickles and onions carry a harsh brine that ruins the texture of the skewer, so patting them dry on a paper towel prevents a soggy, dripping mess.
Portion the peppers.
Slice the pepperoncini into slender strips to mimic authentic Spanish piparras, and cut the roasted red peppers into small squares that will sit neatly on the skewer.
Ingredients
- baby dill pickles or cornichons10 oz
- cocktail onions10 oz
- pimento-stuffed Spanish green olives6 oz
- mild pepperoncini10 oz
- jarred roasted red peppers12 oz
- flat anchovy fillets in olive oil2 oz
- wooden skewers12 small
Method
- 01
Thread the skewers starting with the cocktail onion.
Hold the skewer and push a cocktail onion near the blunt top, followed by a square of red pepper, a green olive, and a folded strip of pepperoncini.
- 02
Add the anchovy and finish with the pickle.
Roll an anchovy fillet tightly and thread it on, then cap the pointed end of the skewer with a cornichon to act as a sturdy base stopper.
- 03
Chill the assembled banderillas thoroughly.
Place the assembled skewers in the refrigerator until they are completely cold, maximizing the crisp crunch of the vegetables.
- 04
Drizzle with anchovy oil immediately before serving.
Spoon a tiny amount of the reserved tin oil over the ice-cold skewers to enrich the sharp vinegar bite with a luxurious, umami-rich finish.
Notes
Never use sweet or bread-and-butter pickles.
The dish relies entirely on a sharp, acidic bite; any added sweetness from the pickle brine will completely throw off the balance of the banderilla.
Skip the spicy pepper for a milder version.
In Spain, it is incredibly common to serve both spicy and sweet variations side-by-side, so simply omit the pepperoncini to make a kid-friendly version.
From Cook Spanish in America.