Bala-Bala
Sarapan Pagi & Gorengan (Morning Rhythms & The Art of the Fry)
Six a.m. at a Jakarta transit stop, the wok hisses, frying up what they call "Bala-Bala," which translates to "messy"—a chaotic tangle of shredded cabbage and carrots barely held together by a sheer veil of savory batter. The secret to making them shatteringly crisp and completely greaseless isn't a modern kitchen hack; it's a precise blend of rice flour, a touch of butter, and ice-cold water hitting hot oil. Spike the batter with toasted coriander, fry them until the edges shatter, and eat them immediately from a grease-spotted paper bag with a raw bird's eye chili in your other hand.
Before you start
Ensure the vegetables are completely dry.
Moisture is the enemy of the perfect fry; spin the shredded cabbage and sprouts in a salad spinner or pat them rigorously with paper towels before mixing.
Ingredients
- green cabbage2 cup
- carrots1 cup
- mung bean sprouts1 cup
- scallions2 med
- Chinese celery leaves2 tbsp
- garlic4 med cloves
- shallots2 small
- macadamia nuts2 med
- ground coriander1 tsp
- chicken bouillon powder1 tsp
- fine sea salt1 tsp
- ground white pepper1/2 tsp
- all-purpose flour1 1/2 cup
- rice flour1/3 cup
- baking powder1/2 tsp
- unsalted butter1 tbsp
- ice water1 cup
- neutral oil1 qt
- Thai bird's eye chilies6 small
Method
- 01
Create the traditional bumbu halus flavor base.
In a mortar and pestle or a small food processor, pound the garlic, shallots, macadamia nuts, coriander, bouillon powder, salt, and white pepper with a tiny splash of water until it forms a smooth, fragrant paste.
- 02
Toss the dried vegetables in a large bowl.
Combine the shredded cabbage, carrot matchsticks, bean sprouts, scallions, and celery leaves, ensuring they remain as dry as possible so they do not water down the final batter.
- 03
Whisk together the cold, thick batter.
In a medium bowl, whisk the all-purpose flour, rice flour, and baking powder, then stir in the aromatic paste and melted butter before gradually whisking in 3/4 cup of the ice water until it forms a thick paste, adding the remaining water only if it is entirely too stiff.
- 04
Gently fold the vegetables into the batter without overmixing.
Pour the batter over the vegetables and use a silicone spatula to gently fold the mixture until every strand is lightly coated; do not squeeze or overmix with your hands, which activates the gluten and yields a tough fritter.
- 05
Deep fry the messy fritters in batches.
Heat about two inches of neutral oil in a heavy Dutch oven or wok to 350°F, then scoop 3 tablespoons of the vegetable mixture, dropping it gently against the side of the pot to flatten it slightly so wild strands of cabbage stick out and create crispy edges.
- 06
Drain on a wire rack and serve piping hot.
Fry 3 to 4 fritters at a time for 2 to 3 minutes per side until deeply golden, transfer them to a wire rack set over paper towels to keep the bottoms from getting soggy, and serve immediately with raw bird's eye chilies to nibble on between bites.
Notes
The ice water technique is non-negotiable.
The drastic temperature difference between the frigid batter and the hot oil shocks the crust into a shatteringly crisp texture, preventing the vegetables from soaking up excess grease.
Do not grate the carrots.
Grating carrots releases far too much water into the batter, compromising the precise flour ratio and leading to a soggy interior. Always take the time to cut them into fine matchsticks.