Baked Ziti Parmigiana

Before you start

• Create the panade.

  Soak the torn white bread in the whole milk until mushy. Squeeze out excess liquid and mash into a paste before mixing into the meat; this is what keeps the meatballs incredibly tender.

• Hand-grate the mozzarella.

  Do not buy pre-shredded cheese. The anti-caking agents will ruin the glorious cheese pull. Buy a block and use the large holes of a box grater.

Ingredients

• extra-virgin olive oil3 tbsp
• meaty pork spare ribs or neck bones1 lb
• sweet or hot Italian sausage links1 lb
• large yellow onion1 large
• garlic cloves9 large
• tomato paste1/4 cup
• canned whole peeled San Marzano tomatoes84 oz
• fresh basil1 large
• fresh flat-leaf parsley1/4 cup
• ground beef1/2 lb
• ground pork1/4 lb
• ground veal1/4 lb
• thick white bread2 large
• whole milk1/4 cup
• eggs3 large
• Parmigiano-Reggiano2 cup
• neutral oil1/4 cup
• dried cut ziti1 lb
• whole milk ricotta1 1/2 cup
• low-moisture whole-milk mozzarella1 lb
• Kosher salt2 tbsp
• black pepper2 tsp
• red pepper flakes1/4 tsp

Method

1. 01

   Render the pork ribs and brown the sausages in olive oil in a large Dutch oven.

   Sear them aggressively over medium-high heat until deeply browned, about 10 minutes. Transfer the meats to a sheet pan; this rendered fat is the foundation of your gravy.

2. 02

   Sweat the onion and garlic in the pork fat, then caramelize the tomato paste.

   Cook the onion until translucent, add the smashed garlic and red pepper flakes, then clear a hot spot and fry the tomato paste for 2 to 3 minutes until it darkens to a brick red.

3. 03

   Build the Sunday gravy and simmer for at least three and a half hours.

   Pour in the hand-crushed tomatoes, toss in the basil sprig, and return the ribs and sausages to the pot. Bring to a boil, drop the heat to the absolute lowest setting, and partially cover, stirring every 30 minutes.

4. 04

   Mix the meatballs using the panade, ground meats, two eggs, one cup of Parmesan, minced garlic, and parsley.

   Mix gently with your hands. Do not over-compress the meat or your meatballs will turn out dense.

5. 05

   Form into golf-ball-sized spheres and brown them aggressively in a skillet.

   Heat the neutral oil over medium-high heat and fry the meatballs until a deep brown crust forms on all sides.

6. 06

   Slide the browned meatballs into the simmering gravy for its final forty-five minutes.

   Let them gently poach in the red sauce until they are perfectly tender and infused with tomato.

7. 07

   Boil the ziti for three minutes less than the package instructions.

   This is a critical step. The pasta must be stiff and chalky in the center, otherwise it will disintegrate into mush when baked.

8. 08

   Whisk the ricotta, the remaining egg, a half cup of Parmesan, salt, and pepper in a bowl.

   The egg binds the ricotta, preventing it from turning into a watery soup in the oven.

9. 09

   Toss the undercooked ziti with three cups of the finished, hot gravy.

   Fish the meats out of the gravy and set them aside on a platter. Toss the pasta thoroughly so every single noodle is coated.

10. 10

    Layer the ziti, ricotta cream, mozzarella, and gravy into a large baking dish.

    Start with a thin layer of gravy, add half the ziti, dollop the ricotta, scatter half the mozzarella, add the rest of the ziti, more gravy, and top with the remaining mozzarella and extra Parmesan.

11. 11

    Bake tented with foil at 375°F for 20 minutes, then uncover and bake until violently bubbling.

    Remove the foil and bake for another 15 to 20 minutes until you have a glorious, golden-brown crust. Let it rest for 10 minutes before serving.

Notes

• Serve the meats on the side.

  The gravy-braised ribs, sausage, and meatballs should be piled high on a platter and served alongside the ziti.

• Make it a proper feast.

  Serve with foil-wrapped garlic bread—so the steam softens the interior while the garlic butter permeates the crumb—and a cheap bottle of Chianti.