Baccalà alla Ghiotta Veloce
(bah-kah-LAH ah-lah GYOH-tah veh-LOH-cheh)
Le Feste: Sicilian-American Holiday Spreads
Drop the center-cut cod into the skillet, scatter oil-cured olives into the garlic, and listen as the pan hisses. Historically, making it meant spending three days babysitting soaking boards of salt cod. We don't have time for that anymore. By utilizing pre-soaked salt cod and giving the potatoes a strategic head start in the pot, dinner hits the table in forty-five minutes. It tastes of sea salt, olive oil, and starch. Keep the heat high, step back, and have the bread ready.
Before you start
Source the right fish.
Look for pre-soaked salt cod at Italian specialty markets to save yourself three days of work. If you must use fresh or frozen cod, salt the fillets heavily 30 minutes before cooking to mimic the cured texture.
Withhold the salt shaker.
Even thoroughly soaked cod hides a deep reservoir of sodium that will leach into the sauce as it braises. Do not add any extra salt to this dish until the absolute final taste test.
Ingredients
- pre-soaked salt cod (baccalà) or thick cod loins1 1/2 lb
- extra virgin olive oil3 tbsp
- white onion1 large
- celery stalk1 med
- salt-packed capers1/4 cup
- Castelvetrano or green olives1/2 cup
- pine nuts3 tbsp
- golden raisins3 tbsp
- Yukon Gold potatoes1 lb
- crushed tomatoes or passata1 1/2 cup
- water or light vegetable broth1/2 cup
- black pepper1 tsp
- fresh flat-leaf parsley1/2 cup
Method
- 01
Prepare the cod.
Cut the dried fish into large, 3-inch chunks, leaving the skin on so the delicate flesh holds together during the braise.
- 02
Build the flavor foundation.
In a wide, heavy-bottomed skillet or Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium heat and gently sauté the onion and celery for 5 to 7 minutes until translucent and fragrant.
- 03
Awaken the sweet and briny elements.
Stir in the rinsed capers, chopped olives, plumped raisins, and pine nuts, letting them sizzle for 2 minutes to bloom their oils.
- 04
Simmer the starches first.
Add the diced potatoes, crushed tomatoes, and water, bring to a gentle boil, then cover and simmer vigorously over medium-low for 15 minutes until the potatoes just yield to a fork.
- 05
Nestle the cod into the stew.
Uncover the pot and carefully arrange the baccalà chunks skin-side up in the bubbling tomato sauce, spooning a little liquid over the fish.
- 06
Never stir the pot.
Once the fish is in the pan, stirring will shred it into an unappetizing mush; if you need to agitate the ingredients, grab the handles and give the pot a gentle swirl.
- 07
Finish the braise.
Cover again and simmer on low for 10 to 15 minutes until the fish is opaque white and flakes easily, and the potatoes are melt-in-your-mouth tender.
- 08
Garnish and serve.
Turn off the heat, add a heavy grinding of black pepper and the fresh parsley, and serve directly from the pot with thick slices of crusty Italian bread.
Notes
The second-day rule.
Like all great peasant stews, this is demonstrably better the next day after the capers and raisins have had time to marry in the fridge. Gently reheat over low heat, adding a splash of water if the potatoes have absorbed too much liquid.