Bacalhau com Natas

Bacalhau com Natas

Bacalhau com Natas·(bah-kahl-YOW kohn NAH-tahs)

O Nosso Bacalhau

If there is one dish that pulls a Portuguese-American straight back to a Sunday afternoon in their grandmother’s kitchen, it is this one. Born in Lisbon's grand hotels but perfected by generations of home cooks, its true secret is not just heavy cream. The trick is poaching the salt cod in milk, then using that savory, ocean-infused milk to build a proper béchamel. For a weeknight, skip the multi-day soak by grabbing frozen pre-desalted cod and par-baking the potatoes—a pragmatic cheat that saves hours without surrendering a single drop of soul.

Before you start

  • Preheat your oven to 425 degrees Fahrenheit.

Ingredients

  • frozen pre-desalted cod loins1 lb
  • russet potatoes1 1/2 lb
  • whole milk3 cup
  • dried bay leaves2 med
  • whole cloves3 med
  • extra-virgin olive oil3 tbsp
  • yellow onions2 large
  • garlic3 clove
  • unsalted butter4 tbsp
  • all-purpose flour4 tbsp
  • heavy whipping cream1 cup
  • freshly grated nutmeg1/2 tsp
  • Dijon mustard1 tsp
  • fresh lemon juice1 tbsp
  • plain breadcrumbs1/2 cup
  • sharp white cheddar cheese1/2 cup

Method

  1. 01

    Toss the diced potatoes with a drizzle of olive oil and roast them on a baking sheet until golden.

    This bypasses the traditional messy deep-frying step; roast for 20 to 25 minutes at 425 degrees Fahrenheit, then lower the oven to 400 degrees.

  2. 02

    Bring the milk, one bay leaf, and the cloves to a very gentle simmer in a medium saucepan.

    Slip the cod into the milk, cover the pot, turn off the heat, and let it poach in the residual heat for 10 to 15 minutes until it flakes easily.

  3. 03

    Remove the cod to cool, and immediately strain the milk through a fine-mesh sieve.

    Save every drop of this infused milk because it is the absolute backbone of the dish.

  4. 04

    Flake the cooled cod into large chunks with your fingers.

    Meticulously discard any stray skin or pin bones.

  5. 05

    Sauté the sliced onions, minced garlic, and remaining bay leaf in olive oil until deeply caramelized.

    Take your time and cook them over medium heat for 10 to 15 minutes until they are entirely translucent and sweet, then gently stir in the flaked cod and remove from the heat.

  6. 06

    Build the béchamel by whisking the butter and flour into a golden paste over medium heat in the saucepan.

    Gradually pour in the reserved cod-infused milk, whisking constantly until the sauce simmers and thickens.

  7. 07

    Remove the sauce from the heat and fold in the heavy cream, nutmeg, mustard, and lemon juice.

    The mustard and lemon are a classic matriarch's secret to cutting the rich dairy fat. Taste and adjust for salt and pepper, keeping in mind the cod milk is naturally salty.

  8. 08

    Gently fold the roasted potatoes and the onion-cod mixture directly into the sauce.

    Be careful not to turn the potatoes and fish into mush, then transfer the whole mixture into a greased 9x13-inch baking dish.

  9. 09

    Top with an even layer of breadcrumbs and grated cheese.

    Bake uncovered at 400 degrees Fahrenheit for 15 to 20 minutes until the edges bubble and the crust turns a deep, crispy golden brown.

Notes

  • Choosing the right cod makes all the difference.

    Seek out frozen, pre-desalted cod loins in the freezer section, which mimics the mandatory 48-hour soak perfectly but requires zero forethought.

  • Do not shortcut the infused milk.

    Many quick recipes just pour cream over the fish, but poaching the cod first and building a true béchamel is what separates real Portuguese cooking from internet imitations.

From Cook Portuguese in America.

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