Bacalhau à Brás
Bacalhau à Brás·(bah-kahl-YOW ah BRAHSH)
O Nosso Bacalhau
If one wants to know what a working-class Portuguese kitchen actually smells like on a Tuesday night, it is this. Bacalhau à Brás is the ultimate empty-pantry miracle born in a nineteenth-century Lisbon tavern, proving that off-cut salt cod, sweet melting onions, crispy potato sticks, and eggs can create absolute magic. Reproducing it in an American kitchen doesn't require a culinary degree, just a basic understanding of a Portuguese grandmother’s greatest secrets: profound patience with the onions, and a healthy fear of the fire when it comes time to add the eggs.
Before you start
Desalt the cod starting the day before.
Rinse the crusty salt off the cod under cold water, place the fish in a large bowl, cover it completely with cold water, and put it in the fridge for 24 hours, changing the water three or four times to keep the fish firm and fresh.
Ingredients
- dried salt cod1 lb
- extra virgin olive oil1/4 cup
- yellow onions2 large
- dry bay leaves2
- garlic3 clove
- extra thin potato sticks7 oz
- eggs6 large
- black pepper1 pinch
- fresh flat leaf parsley1/2 cup
- black olives1/2 cup
Method
- 01
Poach and shred the soaked cod.
Drain the 24-hour soaked cod, drop it into a small pot of gently simmering water for 5 minutes until it flakes, then remove and shred into bite-sized pieces with your hands, discarding any rogue bones or skin.
- 02
Melt the onions slowly into the olive oil.
In a large, heavy-bottomed skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-low heat and sauté the onions and bay leaves for 10 to 15 minutes until they are perfectly soft, sweet, and practically melting into the oil, then stir in the minced garlic for 60 seconds.
- 03
Combine the cod and onions.
Add the shredded cod to the skillet, stirring gently to coat the fish in the garlicky oil, and let it cook for 3 to 4 minutes so the flavors marry.
- 04
Fold in exactly half of the potato sticks.
Let them sit in the hot skillet for 30 seconds to absorb a little of the moisture from the cod.
- 05
Turn the stove burner completely off.
This is the critical secret to the dish; if you are using an electric stove that holds heat, move the skillet entirely to a cool burner before proceeding.
- 06
Quickly stir in the beaten eggs to create a creamy emulsion.
Season the beaten eggs with the black pepper, pour them into the skillet, and stir constantly and vigorously with a wooden spoon so the residual heat cooks the eggs into a glossy, custard-like cream, preventing the tragedy of dry, scrambled eggs.
- 07
Fold in the remaining potato sticks and garnish.
Immediately fold in the rest of the potatoes to preserve their fresh crunch, discard the bay leaves, and transfer to a warm serving platter showered generously with chopped parsley and black olives.
Notes
Source the right potatoes.
Seek out Brazilian Yoki brand potato sticks in the Latin aisle, or standard American canned shoestring potatoes like Pik-Nik. Do not use regular potato chips or thick hash browns, which will completely ruin the delicate texture of the dish.
Manage the heat.
The difference between an authentic, creamy Bacalhau à Brás and dry scrambled eggs with fish is entirely in pulling the pan off the heat before the eggs go in.