Avgolemono

Ingredients

• bone-in skin-on chicken pieces1 1/2 lb
• water8 cup
• yellow onion1 large
• carrot2 large
• celery stalk1 large
• kosher salt1 1/2 tsp
• black pepper1/4 tsp
• Arborio rice1/2 cup
• eggs3 large
• lemon juice1/3 cup
• cornstarch1 tsp

Method

1. 01

   Boil the chicken and skim the scum.

   Place the chicken in a heavy Dutch oven or large pot and cover with the water. Bring to a rolling boil over medium-high heat. For the first 10 minutes, stand there with a slotted spoon and meticulously skim away the grey foam that rises to the top—do not skip this, as it guarantees a clean broth.

2. 02

   Simmer the aromatics.

   Once the broth is clear, drop in the halved onion, carrots, celery, salt, and pepper. Lower the heat, partially cover the pot, and simmer for 40 to 45 minutes until the chicken is falling off the bone. Remember, no sautéing beforehand; we want unadulterated chicken flavor.

3. 03

   Strain the broth and shred the meat.

   Remove the pot from the heat. Pull the chicken and vegetables out and transfer them to a platter. Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve into a large bowl to ensure absolute clarity, discarding the boiled vegetables. Return the clear liquid to the pot. Discard the chicken skin and bones, shred the meat, and set it aside.

4. 04

   Cook the rice.

   Bring the clear broth back to a gentle simmer. Stir in the rinsed Arborio rice and cook uncovered for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. You want the rice tender and the broth slightly cloudy from the released starch. Remove the pot from the heat entirely—the broth must stop boiling before the next step. Stir the shredded chicken back in.

5. 05

   Whip the marenga.

   This is the grandmother's secret for a cloud-like texture. In an impeccably clean glass or metal bowl, whisk the cold egg whites vigorously until they form a thick, frothy foam of soft peaks. Whisk the yolks into the whites. Dissolve the cornstarch into your fresh lemon juice, then slowly drizzle the lemon mixture into the fluffy eggs while whisking constantly.

6. 06

   Temper the eggs and finish the soup.

   Using a ladle, scoop about half a cup of the hot broth from the pot. While whisking the egg-lemon mixture frantically with one hand, slowly drizzle the hot broth into the bowl in a thin thread. Repeat with two more ladles of broth until the bowl feels warm to the touch. Pour this tempered mixture back into the main pot. Gently swirl the pot or stir for one minute. The soup will instantly transform into a velvety emulsion. Serve immediately, and never let it boil again.

Notes

• The Weeknight Shortcut.

  If you only have 30 minutes, skip boiling the raw chicken. Bring 8 cups of high-quality boxed chicken broth to a boil, add the rice, and cook for 15 minutes. Toss in 2 cups of shredded supermarket rotisserie chicken, then proceed straight to whipping the eggs. Using the authentic marenga technique elevates store-bought ingredients to taste exactly like home.

• Reheating Rules.

  Avgolemono is notorious for separating if you disrespect it in the microwave. To warm leftovers, heat them gently on the stove over medium-low heat, stirring frequently. Do not let the pot come to a boil, or you will end up with scrambled eggs.

• No Garlic Allowed.

  You may see garlic or heavy herbs like dill in American-Greek restaurant soups. Ignore them. Traditional kotosoupa relies entirely on the interplay of rich chicken fat, starchy rice, and bright citrus. Keep it simple and trust the tradition.