Authentic Homestyle Colcannon
Cál Ceannann·(kawl kyan-an)
The Evening Tea: Quick Potato Comforts
At six o'clock on a Tuesday, a standard five-pound bag of russets and a head of cabbage yield a dense, sweet mash streaked with bitter green. The real magic is in the steaming. We don't boil potatoes to a watery death here; we cook them halfway, drain the pot, and let them steam dry. This creates a fluffy, thirsty mash that begs to absorb ridiculous amounts of good butter and scalded milk. Forget the modern, over-garnished diner plates. Grab a heavy potato masher, dig a shallow well in the center, and eat it before it cools as the hot salted butter pools.
Ingredients
- Russet or Yukon Gold potatoes2 1/2 lb
- Savoy cabbage or curly kale1/2 lb
- whole milk1 cup
- scallions1 bunch
- European-style salted butter6 tbsp
- kosher saltto taste
- freshly ground black pepperto taste
Method
- 01
Boil the potatoes halfway.
Place the whole, unpeeled potatoes in a large pot, cover with an inch of cold water, and add a heavy pinch of salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook for about 15 minutes. They should only be half-cooked at this point—a knife will meet real resistance in the center.
- 02
Steam the potatoes dry.
Pour off two-thirds of the water. Cover the pot tightly with a lid, turn the heat down to low, and let the potatoes gently steam in the remaining water for 10 to 15 minutes until fully tender. This grandmother's trick drives off excess moisture, leaving you with a dry, fluffy potato ready to soak up the dairy.
- 03
Scald the milk with the scallion whites.
While the potatoes are steaming, heat the milk and the chopped white parts of the scallions in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring it just to a simmer, then immediately turn off the heat and let it steep. Scalding keeps the potatoes hot during mashing and extracts the aromatic oils from the scallions.
- 04
Wilt the greens.
In a wide skillet, heat two tablespoons of the butter and two tablespoons of water over medium-high heat. When bubbling, toss in the shredded cabbage or kale and a pinch of salt. Cover for two minutes to let the steam wilt the greens, then uncover and stir for another two to three minutes until tender but still retaining a slight bite.
- 05
Peel and mash the hot potatoes.
Drain any remaining water from the tender potatoes. Using a kitchen towel to protect your hands, slip the skins right off the hot potatoes and return the naked flesh to the hot, empty pot. Mash them immediately while they are steaming hot.
- 06
Fold it all together.
Pour the warm, scallion-infused milk over the potatoes, along with four tablespoons of butter. Beat with a wooden spoon or masher until light and creamy. Gently fold in the cooked greens and the remaining scallion greens. Season aggressively with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
- 07
Serve with a well of butter.
Transfer the hot colcannon to a warm serving bowl. Use the back of a spoon to create a deep well in the center of the mash and drop in a generous knob of butter. Serve immediately as it melts into a golden pool.
Notes
Don't skimp on butter quality.
Standard American butter contains more water and less fat than what's used in Ireland. For the right texture and authentic homeland flavor, seek out a high-fat European-style butter like Kerrygold.
Repurpose your leftovers.
Traditional cooks never waste colcannon. The next morning, shape the cold leftovers into thick patties, dust lightly with flour, and fry in butter or bacon fat until crispy and golden. Serve with a fried egg.
A weeknight shortcut.
Boiling potatoes in their jackets preserves their fluffy texture, but if you're rushed, you can peel and quarter them to cut boiling time in half. Just make sure to drain them completely and let them sit in the hot, dry pot off the heat for two minutes to evaporate excess surface water before mashing.
From Cook Irish-American Food.