Ash-e Reshteh
آش رشته·(ahsh-eh resh-teh)
Jomeh: The Friday Simmer
At 6:30 p.m. on a Tuesday, Ash-e Reshteh is a chaotic, literal tangle of thick reshteh noodles, chopped spinach, and a 15-ounce can of chickpeas, and the pot boils furiously to cheat a slow-simmered depth into the workweek. Though it traditionally demands a day of soaking, you don't need twenty-four hours to develop a deeply savory broth. By leaning on high-quality canned beans, focusing your patience on the deeply caramelized onions, and employing a grandmother's trick of a little flour for that velvety viscosity, you build a dark, fragrant stew in under an hour. Finish with a heavy swirl of kashk and eat it hot.
Ingredients
- extra virgin olive oil1/2 cup
- yellow onions2 large
- garlic6 med cloves
- all-purpose flour1 tbsp
- ground turmeric1 tsp
- dried mint2 tbsp
- dried green lentils3/4 cup
- low-sodium vegetable or chicken broth8 cup
- canned chickpeas15 oz
- canned pinto or red kidney beans15 oz
- frozen chopped spinach10 oz
- fresh flat-leaf parsley1 large bunch
- fresh cilantro1 large bunch
- fresh dill1 large bunch
- scallions1 large bunch
- reshteh or udon noodles8 oz
- kosher salt1 tsp
- black pepper1/2 tsp
- liquid kashk or sour cream1/2 cup
- white vinegar1 tbsp
Method
- 01
Build the caramelized flavor foundation.
Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat, add the onions, and fry until deeply golden and crisp, which will take about 15 to 20 minutes. Patience here is non-negotiable; this caramelized base is the flavor engine of the dish.
- 02
Separate the garnish and build the roux.
Remove exactly half of the crispy onions and set them aside on a paper towel. Lower the heat to medium, add the minced garlic to the remaining onions in the pot, and sauté for 1 minute. Sprinkle in the turmeric and flour, stirring continuously for 1 minute to lightly toast the flour, then toss in 1 tablespoon of the dried mint and stir for exactly 10 seconds before it burns.
- 03
Simmer the lentil base.
Immediately pour in the broth, scraping up all the beautiful browned bits from the bottom of the pot, and stir in the dried lentils. Bring the pot to a boil, then reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 25 minutes until the lentils are tender but still hold their shape.
- 04
Incorporate the greens and leave the lid off.
Stir in the drained chickpeas, pinto beans, thawed spinach, parsley, cilantro, dill, and scallions. From this point forward, do not cover the pot; trapping the steam will destroy the chlorophyll and turn your vibrant soup a muddy brown. Simmer uncovered for 10 to 15 minutes.
- 05
Cook the noodles and thicken the soup.
Break your noodles in half, drop them into the pot, and stir well to prevent sticking. Simmer uncovered for another 10 to 15 minutes until tender. The noodles will release starch, thickening the soup to a loose, velvety consistency, at which point you should taste and season generously with salt and pepper.
- 06
Temper the kashk and serve.
If using sour cream, whisk it with the white vinegar and a pinch of salt. Place your kashk or sour cream mixture in a small bowl, ladle in a few spoonfuls of hot broth, and whisk to temper it so it doesn't curdle in the main pot. Serve the soup in wide bowls, drizzle with the tempered dairy, and garnish generously with the reserved crispy onions.
Notes
Sourcing Kashk and Reshteh
If you can't find fermented whey (kashk) or Persian noodles at a local Middle Eastern market, Japanese udon noodles and a mix of sour cream with white vinegar make remarkably accurate weeknight substitutes.
The Mint Oil Flourish
For an authentic finishing touch, heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a tiny skillet, toss in the remaining tablespoon of dried mint for just 5 seconds, and drizzle this aromatic mint oil over the finished bowls.
From Cook Persian in America.