Arroz Doce Rápido

Arroz Doce Rápido

Arroz Doce Rápido·(ah-rosh doh-seh rah-pee-doo)

Doces: Sweet Endings and Coffee Hour

Drop a thick strip of lemon peel into a heavy-bottomed pot, stir the short-grain rice, and push it to the back burner. Within minutes, the smell of lemon peel and cinnamon simmering on the stove takes over the kitchen. A dense, yellow custard coaxed from unwashed rice, hot milk, and tempered egg yolks, this bowl banishes the bland, baked diner pudding you're used to. Taking only thirty minutes and permitting no condensed milk shortcuts, the stovetop method uses an accelerated risotto technique to achieve that exact old-world creaminess. Dust the surface with cinnamon and eat it standing at the counter.

Before you start

  • Warm the milk.

    Heat the whole milk in a separate saucepan or in the microwave until steaming hot, but not boiling, before you begin cooking the rice.

  • Peel the lemon carefully.

    Use a vegetable peeler to remove wide strips of the bright yellow zest, leaving the bitter white pith behind.

Ingredients

  • Arborio rice1 cup
  • water2 cup
  • unsalted butter1 tbsp
  • cinnamon stick1 large
  • lemon peel4 wide strips
  • kosher salt1/4 tsp
  • whole milk4 cup
  • granulated white sugar1 cup
  • egg yolks3 large
  • ground cinnamon1 tbsp

Method

  1. 01

    Infuse the boiling water with aromatics.

    In a medium-heavy saucepan or Dutch oven, combine the water, butter, cinnamon stick, lemon peels, and salt. Bring to a rolling boil over medium-high heat.

  2. 02

    Simmer the unwashed rice to soften the grains.

    Add the Arborio rice and stir well. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer rapidly for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the rice absorbs almost all the water and begins to look plump.

  3. 03

    Coax out the starch using the hot milk.

    Treat this phase like a risotto by pouring in the hot milk one cup at a time, keeping the heat on medium-low. Stir frequently with a wooden spoon and wait until the rice absorbs most of the milk before adding the next cup. This takes 15 to 20 minutes and creates a thick, natural cream.

  4. 04

    Sweeten the fully tender rice.

    Taste a grain of rice to ensure it is completely soft with no chalky center. Stir in the sugar and cook for 2 to 3 minutes until completely dissolved, then turn off the heat entirely.

  5. 05

    Temper the egg yolks to prevent scrambling.

    Lightly whisk the egg yolks in a small bowl. Slowly drizzle a ladleful of the hot rice pudding into the yolks while whisking vigorously, then pour the warmed, tempered egg mixture back into the main pot.

  6. 06

    Thicken the final custard.

    Return the heat to the lowest possible setting. Stir constantly for 2 to 3 minutes to gently cook the egg yolks until the pudding thickens into a rich, yellow custard, taking absolute care not to let it boil.

  7. 07

    Plate and finish with a signature cinnamon lattice.

    Discard the lemon peels and cinnamon stick, then pour the hot pudding onto a wide, shallow serving platter to set as it cools. Pinch ground cinnamon between your fingers to draw a traditional criss-cross lattice pattern over the surface before serving at room temperature.

Notes

  • Never wash the rice.

    Rinsing strips away the surface starch (amylopectin) that is absolutely critical for thickening the milk and creating the pudding's authentic creamy texture.

  • Cook in water before adding milk.

    Boiling raw rice directly in milk will scorch the dairy and leave the grains crunchy. Boiling it in water first softens the grain rapidly.

  • Delay the sugar until the end.

    Sugar alters osmotic pressure and hardens rice grains. If added at the beginning, the rice will never cook properly, so always wait until it is completely tender.

From Cook Portuguese in America.

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