Arroz de Tomate com Ovos Estrelados
Arroz de Tomate com Ovos Estrelados·(ah-ROZH deh too-MAH-teh kohn OH-voos shtreh-LAH-doos)
The Soul of the Kitchen: O Refogado & A Despensa
Tuesday at 6 p.m., the refogado hisses, twenty minutes pass, and short-grain rice refuses to be a polite side dish, becoming a wild, saucy arroz malandrinho—a starchy, tomato-spiked broth built on a patient refogado of olive oil, onion, and garlic. Crown it with an olive-oil-fried egg, and break it while the rice is still steaming so the runny yolk bleeds right into the stew.
Before you start
Keep the stock hot.
Maintain the chicken or vegetable stock at a low simmer in a separate saucepan so it does not drop the temperature of the pot and shock the rice when added.
Ingredients
- extra virgin olive oil3 tbsp
- yellow onion1 med
- garlic cloves3 large
- dried bay leaf1 large
- dry white wine1/4 cup
- diced tomatoes14.5 oz
- tomato paste1 tbsp
- Arborio rice1 cup
- vegetable or chicken stock4 cup
- kosher salt1 tsp
- black pepper1/4 tsp
- sugar1 pinch
- fresh cilantro or flat-leaf parsley1/4 cup
- eggs4 large
- extra virgin olive oil1/4 cup
- flaky sea salt1 pinch
Method
- 01
Sweat the aromatics to build the foundational refogado.
Heat three tablespoons of olive oil in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium-low. Cook the onion, garlic, and bay leaf for 5 to 7 minutes until incredibly soft and fragrant, ensuring the garlic does not brown.
- 02
Deglaze the pot and simmer the tomato base.
Pour in the wine and scrape up any fond. Stir in the diced tomatoes, tomato paste, kosher salt, black pepper, and sugar, simmering for 5 to 8 minutes until it becomes a thick, dark red paste.
- 03
Toast the dry rice and flood with hot stock.
Stir the unwashed Arborio rice into the paste for one to two minutes to coat the grains. Pour in three and a half cups of the hot stock—keeping the remaining half cup in reserve—and stir well.
- 04
Simmer gently until the rice is al dente and soupy.
Bring to a gentle boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, and leave the pot uncovered. Cook for 12 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. If the broth absorbs too quickly, add the reserved hot stock.
- 05
Rest the rice off the heat to perfect the creamy texture.
Remove the pot from the heat and stir in half the cilantro or parsley. Cover tightly and let it sit undisturbed for 3 to 5 minutes so the residual heat can finish cooking the grains.
- 06
Fry the eggs in hot olive oil.
Heat a quarter cup of olive oil in a skillet over medium-high. Crack in the eggs, add a few drops of water to a bare spot in the pan, and immediately cover with a lid for 60 seconds to create crispy edges and a runny yolk.
- 07
Serve immediately before the rice absorbs the remaining broth.
If the rice has tightened up during its rest, stir in a quick splash of hot water to loosen it. Ladle into shallow bowls, crown each with a fried egg, and garnish with the remaining herbs and flaky salt.
Notes
Reviving leftovers.
Leftover malandrinho rice will turn into a solid brick in the fridge. Reheat it in a saucepan over medium heat, aggressively stirring in a half cup of water or broth until the saucy emulsion reforms.
Do not rinse the rice.
Rinsing removes the surface starches necessary to bind the tomato broth into a creamy, cohesive sauce.