Arakas Latheros
Αρακάς λαδερός·(ah-rah-KAS lah-the-ROS)
Lathera (The Weeknight Backbone)
If you grew up in a Greek household, peas were never some sad, butter-drenched afterthought pushed around the edge of a plate. In the pantheon of Greek home cooking, Arakas Latheros is the undisputed star. It belongs to the sacred tradition of lathera—vegetables slowly braised in a completely unapologetic amount of olive oil. It is a hearty, deeply nostalgic stew meant to be eaten as a main course alongside a slab of real feta and enough crusty bread to mop up the seasoned oil. Unpretentious and fiercely authentic, it relies on a handful of grandmotherly secrets to transform a humble bag of frozen peas into the pure, comforting scent of the homeland on a Tuesday night.
Ingredients
- extra virgin olive oil1/2 cup
- yellow onion1 large
- scallions3 med
- clove garlic1 large
- all-purpose flour1 tbsp
- sugar1 tsp
- tomato paste1 tbsp
- frozen sweet peas1 lb
- Yukon gold potatoes2 med
- carrots2 med
- canned crushed tomatoes1 cup
- hot water1 1/2 cup
- fresh dill1/2 cup
- kosher salt1 1/2 tsp
- black pepper1/2 tsp
Method
- 01
Build the flavor base.
In a wide, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, heat 1/4 cup of the olive oil over medium heat. Add the diced yellow onion and scallions, sautéing for about 5 to 7 minutes until they are soft, translucent, and sweet. Stir in the minced garlic and cook for 30 seconds until fragrant.
- 02
Execute the thickening trick.
Sprinkle the flour and sugar directly over the onions and stir constantly for 1 minute. It will look like a messy paste, but this secret roux guarantees a velvety sauce. Add the tomato paste and fry it in the oil for another minute until it darkens in color and smells deeply toasted.
- 03
Coat the vegetables.
Add the frozen peas, potato chunks, and carrots to the pot. Stir gently for about 2 minutes so all the vegetables are coated in the red, seasoned oil.
- 04
Braise the stew.
Pour in the crushed tomatoes, salt, pepper, and just enough hot water to half-cover the vegetables (do not drown them). Bring the pot to a gentle boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low, cover with a lid, and let it simmer undisturbed for 20 minutes.
- 05
Let it remain with its oil.
Remove the lid and pour in the remaining 1/4 cup of raw olive oil and the fresh dill. Do not stir with a spoon, or you will mash the soft potatoes. Instead, grab the handles of the pot and gently shake it in a circular motion. Simmer uncovered for another 10 to 15 minutes until the watery liquid evaporates completely and the peas look like they are gently frying in the olive oil.
- 06
Rest and serve.
Remove the pot from the heat and walk away. Let it sit uncovered for at least 15 to 20 minutes to cool to a warm room temperature, allowing the potato starch to lock the sauce into a perfect glaze. Serve in shallow bowls alongside a hunk of feta cheese and crusty bread.
Notes
The Thickening Trick.
A pinch of sugar highlights the peas' natural sweetness, while a tablespoon of flour stirred into the onions creates a subtle roux so you get a rich sauce rather than a watery broth.
Na meinei me to ladi tou.
This essential Greek cooking phrase means "let it remain with its oil." You must simmer this dish until the water evaporates and the vegetables sizzle exclusively in the tomato and olive oil.
The Split-Oil Technique.
We use half the olive oil to sauté, and gently swirl the rest in at the very end. This keeps the oil's fresh, grassy, and peppery polyphenols alive.
From Cook Greek in America.