Anticuchos de Corazón

Anticuchos de Corazón

Anticuchos de Corazón·(an-tee-koo-chos de co-ra-son)

La Pollada del Fin de Semana (The Weekend Gatherings)

Originating centuries ago when Afro-Peruvian cooks transformed discarded beef hearts with a bath of smoky chili, garlic, and vinegar, anticuchos are the undisputed king of Peruvian street food. It is a masterclass in making something beautiful out of necessity. For a first-generation kid growing up in the States, eating beef heart might have seemed wild to your school friends, but you knew the truth: when cleaned properly and kissed by the fire of a charcoal grill, it eats like the most tender filet mignon imaginable.

Before you start

  • Clean and butcher the beef heart.

    Lay the heart flat, butterfly it open, and surgically remove all hard white fat, thick veins, and shiny silverskin until only pure, lean muscle remains, then cut it into one-and-a-half-inch cubes.

  • Fashion the authentic basting brush.

    Real anticucheras don't use silicone brushes; tie three or four green husks from an ear of corn together at the top to form a makeshift brush that will impart a whisper of toasted corn aroma to the meat.

  • Soak the wooden skewers.

    Submerge twelve to fourteen wooden or bamboo skewers in water for at least thirty minutes prior to grilling to prevent them from incinerating over the coals.

Ingredients

  • beef heart2 lb
  • ají panca paste1/2 cup
  • red wine vinegar1/2 cup
  • vegetable oil3/4 cup
  • garlic paste1 tbsp
  • ground cumin1 tbsp
  • dried oregano1 tbsp
  • black pepper1 tsp
  • kosher salt2 1/2 tsp
  • dark beer2 tbsp
  • green corn husks3 med
  • russet potatoes3 large
  • choclo2 large
  • red jalapeños2 med
  • red onion1/2 med
  • garlic1 small clove
  • white vinegar1 tbsp
  • scallions1/4 cup

Method

  1. 01

    Crush the toasted oregano.

    In a dry skillet, lightly toast the dried oregano for 30 seconds until fragrant, then dump it into your palms and rub them together over a large bowl to crush the herb into a fine powder.

  2. 02

    Mix the adobo marinade.

    To the bowl with the oregano, add the ají panca paste, red wine vinegar, one-quarter cup of vegetable oil, garlic paste, cumin, black pepper, one and a half teaspoons of salt, and dark beer, whisking until you have a smooth, dark red sauce.

  3. 03

    Reserve the basting liquid.

    Scoop out three generous tablespoons of this marinade and mix it in a separate small bowl with another quarter cup of oil; this is your basting liquid for the grill.

  4. 04

    Marinate the beef heart overnight.

    Drop the cubed meat into the large bowl with the remaining marinade, massaging it with your hands so every piece is coated, then cover tightly and refrigerate overnight to let the vinegar break down the tough muscle fibers.

  5. 05

    Skewer the meat.

    Pull the meat from the fridge 30 minutes before grilling, and thread three to four pieces onto each soaked wooden skewer, leaving a tiny bit of breathing room between the cubes so the fire can lick the edges.

  6. 06

    Fire up the grill.

    Prepare your grill for high, direct heat, ideally using charcoal to capture that true street-cart flavor.

  7. 07

    Grill and baste with the corn-husk brush.

    Lay the skewers on the hottest part of the grill, immediately dipping your makeshift corn-husk brush into the reserved basting liquid and aggressively slapping the meat to lubricate the lean muscle.

  8. 08

    Sear quickly and flip.

    Grill for exactly two to three minutes on the first side until a dark char forms, then flip, baste heavily one more time, and cook for another two minutes until medium-rare.

  9. 09

    Char the potatoes.

    Toss the boiled potato slices onto the grates for a minute or two to absorb the dripping meat juices and build a smoky crust.

  10. 10

    Blend the ají carretillero.

    Sauté the jalapeños, red onion, and whole garlic clove in a splash of oil until softened, then blend with the white vinegar, a pinch of salt, and a quarter cup of oil until emulsified, folding in the scallions by hand at the end.

  11. 11

    Serve blazing hot.

    Serve the skewers straight from the fire, laid over the grilled potatoes and a side of boiled corn, with the spicy sauce for dipping.

Notes

  • The weeknight butcher's pivot.

    Yes, beef heart is incredible, but if you're intimidated or just can't find it, buy a flat iron steak or sirloin tip; they share a similar dense grain and the marinade works the exact same magic.

  • Sourcing ají panca.

    You can find jarred ají panca paste in the international aisle of most supermarkets, but blending two rehydrated dried Mexican ancho chiles with a splash of water and a pinch of smoked paprika is an excellent substitute.

From Cook Peruvian in America.

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