Alcatra da Terceira
(al-KAH-trah dah ter-SAY-rah)
Sunday Saudade: Family Roasts & Hearty Rices
A chuck roast requires captivity. The Azorean tenant farmer knew this, taking the stubborn, bone-heavy cuts of the cow and trapping them in an unglazed clay pot with wine and New World spices until they surrendered. Given three hours, table wine, and strict adherence to the law of layering—absolutely no stirring allowed—the meat becomes a slow-cooked stratum of fat, collagen, and whole allspice berries, letting you bring the Dutch oven straight to the table and pull apart the dark, wine-steeped richness of Terceira.
Before you start
Preheat the oven to 350°F and grease a large Dutch oven generously with the lard.
Smear the fat all over the bottom and sides. If you actually happen to own a traditional cured Azorean alguidar, use it.
Whisk the white wine, red wine, water, and vinegar together in a bowl.
This blend mimics the fruity, highly perfumed Vinho de Cheiro native to the islands, which can be impossible to find at a normal American grocery store.
Ingredients
- beef chuck roast2 lb
- bone-in beef shanks or thick bone-in short ribs1 1/2 lb
- thick-cut smoked bacon6 oz
- yellow onions3 large
- head of garlic1 large
- whole allspice berries15
- whole black peppercorns10
- whole cloves5
- dried bay leaves2
- cinnamon stick1
- coarse kosher salt1 tbsp
- lard or bacon fat2 tbsp
- unsalted butter4 tbsp
- dry white wine1 1/2 cup
- light fruity red wine1 cup
- water1/2 cup
- white wine vinegar1 tbsp
Method
- 01
Build the bottom layer of aromatics to protect the meat from the heat.
Place the exposed head of garlic and the cinnamon stick dead center in the bottom of the pot. Scatter half of the sliced onions, half of the diced bacon, and half of the allspice, peppercorns, and cloves evenly across the bottom.
- 02
Arrange the raw beef chunks and bone-in shanks snugly over the onion bed.
Pack them in tightly in a single thick layer. Sprinkle the coarse salt evenly over the meat. Do not sear it first; the long bake in the oven will do the browning work for you.
- 03
Crown the roast with the remaining onions, bacon, spices, and butter.
Cover the meat entirely. Tuck the bay leaves into the edges and dot the top of the onions evenly with the cubes of butter so the fat cascades down through the meat as it cooks.
- 04
Gently pour the wine mixture down the side of the pot.
Pour carefully so you don't wash the spices off the top layer. The liquid should come about three-quarters of the way up the meat—do not fully submerge it, as the exposed top needs dry heat to roast and caramelize.
- 05
Seal the pot tightly and bake for 3 hours.
Press a sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil over the top before placing the heavy lid on. This mimics the ultra-tight seal of traditional clay cooking.
- 06
Uncover the pot and bake for another 30 to 45 minutes to build a glorious, dark crust.
Remove the lid and foil. The meat should be fork-tender. If the exposed meat on top is looking overly dry, gently use a fork to turn just those top pieces over into the rich gravy. Let it reduce until the top layer is beautifully browned.
Notes
Do not stir the pot.
The fundamental secret to this dish relies entirely on the strata. You must let the layers work their magic untouched so the melting butter and wine naturally cascade downward.
Cook it on Sunday to eat on Wednesday.
Alcatra famously tastes even better on the second or third day after the gelatin sets and the spices deeply permeate the meat. Let it cool in the pot, store it in the fridge, and simply reheat it on the stove for an incredible weeknight dinner without the effort.
Serve bubbling hot over sweet bread.
To eat it like a local, spoon the meat and dark gravy generously over Massa Sovada (Portuguese sweet bread) or fluffy white rice. The contrast of the sweet crumb with the savory, deeply spiced beef is spectacular.