Albóndigas en Salsa
(al-BOHN-dee-gahs en SAHL-sah)
Chapter 3: Hot Tapas
Nine o'clock at a crowded table, a bottle of cold Albariño sweating in the corner, skip a quiet Tuesday supper for the flavor-packed albóndigas of a noisy tapas bar. This recipe is strictly the latter. We rely on the golden fifty-fifty split of beef and pork, a heavy hit of oak-smoked Pimentón de la Vera, and dry Sherry to build a savory sauce. Do the heavy lifting the day before; they taste better after twenty-four hours in the fridge, letting you simply slide the terracotta cazuela into a hot oven when the wine is flowing and your guests are ready. Keep a torn baguette within arm's reach, and do not let a single drop go back to the kitchen.
Ingredients
- ground beef1/2 lb
- ground pork1/2 lb
- crustless white bread1 cup
- whole milk1/3 cup
- egg1 large
- garlic2 clove
- fresh flat-leaf parsley1/4 cup
- yellow onion1/2 small
- fine sea salt1 tsp
- black pepper1/2 tsp
- all-purpose flour1/2 cup
- Spanish extra virgin olive oil1/4 cup
- yellow onion1 med
- garlic2 clove
- all-purpose flour1 tbsp
- sweet Pimentón de la Vera1 tsp
- hot Pimentón de la Vera1/4 tsp
- dry Spanish sherry1/2 cup
- tomato paste2 tbsp
- beef stock1 1/2 cup
- bay leaf1 med
Method
- 01
Make the panade.
In a large mixing bowl, mash the torn bread and milk together with a fork to form a wet, homogenous paste. This starch gel is your insurance policy against dry meatballs.
- 02
Mix and form the meatballs.
Add the beef, pork, egg, grated onion and its juices, minced garlic, parsley, salt, and pepper. Gently mix with your hands until just combined, being careful not to overwork the meat, then pinch off portions and roll into small, bite-sized spheres.
- 03
Dust and sear the meat.
Pour the half cup of flour into a shallow dish and roll each meatball to coat, shaking off the excess. Heat the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat and sear the meatballs in batches until they develop a rich, golden-brown crust. Remove to a plate.
- 04
Build the sofrito base.
Pour off all but 3 tablespoons of fat from the skillet. Lower the heat to medium and slowly sauté the diced onion and sliced garlic until deeply translucent and soft, about 8 to 10 minutes.
- 05
Toast the roux and the smoke.
Stir in the tablespoon of flour and cook for 1 minute to remove the raw starch flavor. Pull the pan entirely off the heat for 10 seconds, then stir in both types of Pimentón de la Vera. Toasting it off the heat prevents this crucial spice from burning and turning bitter.
- 06
Deglaze with sherry.
Return the pan to the heat and immediately pour in the dry Sherry, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom. Let the wine reduce by half, then stir in the tomato paste, beef stock, and bay leaf.
- 07
Marry the meatballs and sauce.
Gently slide the seared meatballs back into the gently simmering sauce. Turn the heat to low, partially cover, and let them cook through for 15 to 20 minutes.
- 08
Chill it overnight.
Remove from heat, cool to room temperature, and refrigerate overnight in an airtight container. This twenty-four-hour hold is the ultimate restaurant secret, allowing the smoke and wine to permeate the meat while you sleep.
- 09
Fire to order.
Thirty minutes before you want to eat, pull the meatballs from the fridge. Transfer them to a traditional terracotta cazuela or cast-iron skillet and blast in a 425°F oven for 10 to 15 minutes until the sauce is violently bubbling.
- 10
Serve aggressively hot.
Pull the sizzling dish from the oven, garnish with fresh chopped parsley and a hit of finishing olive oil, and serve immediately with plenty of crusty bread.
Notes
The meat ratio is non-negotiable.
A fifty-fifty blend of beef and pork is the golden rule among Spanish chefs. Substituting all beef will yield a dense, dry meatball.
Demand the right paprika.
If you want to bite into a meatball and say, 'Yes, this is exactly what Jaleo puts on the plate,' Pimentón de la Vera is mandatory. Standard grocery store paprika lacks the haunting oak smoke necessary for this dish.