Ab Doogh Khiar
آبدوغخیار·(aab-doogh-khi-yaar)
Garm, Sard, & Aash (Grandma's Healing Bowls)
The culinary heritage of Iran is built upon a profound understanding of balance. In the blistering heat of the Iranian summer, the body requires cooling foods to survive, and the cure is a restorative, humble bowl of Ab Doogh Khiar. But this isn't just a cold soup of yogurt and cucumbers. It is a masterpiece of ancient Persian humoral medicine. Because the dairy and cucumbers are intensely 'cold' to the body's metabolism, Iranian grandmothers intuitively counterweight them with 'warm' ingredients: toasted walnuts, sweet raisins, and fragrant dried mint. For a first-generation kid recreating those hot summer afternoons in an Ohio kitchen, the magic relies on a few non-negotiable homeland truths: use the richest dairy you can find, never skip the dried rose petals, and hold the ice until the absolute last second.
Before you start
Dehydrate the bread.
Using fresh, soft bread is the ultimate faux pas as it instantly turns to unappetizing mush in the liquid. Bake the pieces of lavash or pita in a 350°F oven for 5 to 7 minutes until golden and crisp like crackers.
Ingredients
- full-fat Greek yogurt2 cup
- heavy whipping cream2 tbsp
- Doogh or plain unsweetened Kefir2 cup
- ice-cold water1 1/2 cup
- Persian cucumbers5 small
- walnuts1/2 cup
- dark or golden raisins1/3 cup
- fresh mint leaves1/2 cup
- fresh dill1/2 cup
- fresh basil or tarragon1/4 cup
- dried mint1 tbsp
- garlic1 small clove
- scallions3 med
- kosher salt1 1/2 tsp
- black pepper1/2 tsp
- dried edible rose petals2 tbsp
- lavash or pita bread2 large pieces
- ice cubes12 small
Method
- 01
Emulsify the dairy base.
In a large serving bowl, aggressively whisk the full-fat Greek yogurt and heavy cream for thirty seconds until glossy and slightly aerated to prevent the soup from separating.
- 02
Season the yogurt.
Whisk in the grated garlic, dried mint, crushed dried rose petals, salt, and black pepper.
- 03
Fold in the solids.
Using a spatula, fold in the diced cucumbers, chopped walnuts, raisins, fresh mint, dill, and basil, holding back the scallions for now.
- 04
Thin the soup.
Slowly stream in the Doogh, stirring continuously, then gradually add the ice-cold water until the liquid is thinner than tzatziki but thicker than milk.
- 05
Marinate the flavors.
Cover the bowl and refrigerate for one to two hours so the dried herbs and rose petals can bloom and infuse their essential oils into the dairy.
- 06
Assemble and serve.
Right before serving, stir in the sliced scallions to prevent them from turning slimy in the liquid. Ladle the cold soup into individual bowls, add two or three ice cubes directly to each serving, and let guests crush the crispy bread over the top.
Notes
Toast the walnuts.
Placing the walnuts in a dry skillet over medium heat for a few minutes releases their essential oils and prevents them from tasting raw in the cold liquid.
Substitute grapes for raisins.
If raisins aren't your preference, substitute a half cup of halved small red grapes to provide the same sweet burst and humoral warmth without the chewy texture.
Replicate Doogh if you cannot find it.
If your local market lacks Doogh or Kefir, increase the Greek yogurt to 3 cups, the cold water to 2 1/2 cups, add an extra teaspoon of dried mint, and squeeze in a tablespoon of fresh lemon juice to mimic the tart fermentation.
From Cook Persian in America.