1970s Koreatown LA Galbi
LA 갈비·(LA galbi)
First-Generation Sunday Suppers: Gatherings & Feasts
Born from the electric band saws of 1970s Los Angeles butcher shops, a battered Tupperware tub of flanken-cut short ribs anchors this weekend feast on Olympic Boulevard. A quick soak in lemon-lime soda tenderizes the meat and rapidly purges the blood, while straining the pear and onion puree guarantees a slick, caramelized glaze that won't scorch in a hot skillet. Lay the meat flat, let the sugar hiss, and taste the glorious, garlic-perfumed kitchens of a first-generation Sunday supper.
Ingredients
- flanken-cut beef short ribs3 lb
- lemon-lime soda2 cup
- Asian pear1/2 large
- white onion1/2 large
- water1/2 cup
- Korean soy sauce1 cup
- brown sugar1/2 cup
- mirin1/4 cup
- sesame oil1/4 cup
- minced garlic3 tbsp
- black pepper1 tsp
- scallions1 cup
- neutral cooking oil1 tbsp
Method
- 01
Purge the blood to remove any trace of gaminess.
Place the rinsed ribs in a large bowl and pour the lemon-lime soda over the meat until fully submerged. Let it sit for exactly 30 minutes at room temperature. The carbonation breaks down the proteins while the sugar rapidly extracts residual blood.
- 02
Drain the meat without rinsing.
Pour the liquid away in a colander, but do not rinse the beef again; you want to retain the tenderizing effects and subtle sweetness of the soda. Snip off any massive, hard chunks of exterior fat with kitchen shears.
- 03
Blend and clarify the aromatics.
Blitz the pear, onion, and water in a blender until completely liquefied. Set a cheesecloth or fine mesh sieve over a large mixing bowl and wring the puree through, extracting only the pristine juice. Discard the fibrous pulp, which would otherwise burn instantly in a hot pan.
- 04
Build the golden ratio marinade.
Into the bowl of clarified pear and onion juice, whisk the soy sauce, brown sugar, mirin, garlic, sesame oil, and black pepper until the sugar is fully dissolved. Stir in the chopped scallions.
- 05
Stack and bathe the ribs.
Ladle a bit of marinade into the bottom of a wide, airtight container. Lay down a single, flat layer of ribs, then ladle more marinade over them. Repeat this process, stacking the ribs so every piece is thoroughly coated. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or ideally overnight.
- 06
Sear the meat in a hot skillet.
Heat a large, heavy-bottomed pan over medium-high heat. Lightly coat the pan with a small amount of neutral oil and wipe away the excess. Lay the ribs flat without crowding the pan and let them sear undisturbed for 2 minutes to develop a crust.
- 07
Braise and glaze with the residual liquid.
Flip the ribs and immediately ladle a few spoonfuls of the liquid marinade directly into the pan. As the water boils off, the dissolved sugars will reduce into a thick, dark, glossy syrup that perfectly caramelizes around the edges of the beef.
- 08
Serve whole with a pair of shears.
Transfer the glazed ribs to a platter. Let diners use kitchen shears to snip the meat between the bone coins right at the table.
From Cook Korean in America.